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Scoring January 2018

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Scoring January 2018

Postby pra_ggresion » Mon Jan 01, 2018 2:54 pm

Saw a good pic of you Smitty! Definitely profile picture worthy :) The pic of the Foul One was pretty good too. Today was straight EPIC! Yesterday was pretty good, but today was one of the best sessions I've had in Oregon. first of all. The paddle out was super easy. The peak broke in the same spot every time and the the sets were head to head and a half and perfect. Foulweather and I traded rights all morning. There were about 10 people just north of us not getting much while we were scoring non-stop. Best one was a super long left (frontside) tube ride pumping down the line the whole time. One of those rare sessions where I was in perfect rhythm with the sets, conditions were good and I was surfing at my best. The best part isn't even that there's going to be a whole week of more epic conditions, but that there's going to be a whole year ahead. I think 2018 is going to be a good one. Happy New Year all!
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Re: Scoring January 2018

Postby X-squid » Mon Jan 01, 2018 4:04 pm

Score! I'll be paddling out somewhere tomorrow!
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Re: Scoring January 2018

Postby Major Lazer » Tue Jan 02, 2018 2:04 pm

1st day 2018 slept in until 8ish, coffee, crab scramble, and walk on the beach with the fam. Always great to start the New Year with sunshine and salt air. The big winter full moon HT kinda swamping things, new LP starting to show. Eventually suited and booted once it got relatively toasty. Long lulls but saw a right hand peak no one was on. Dusted off my quad fish because it looked kinda fat and glid into my 1st wave of the year which stood up in front of me and nice green wall kinda reeled into the inside bar. Fun to feel the speed of my old self shape, even threw both hands in the air for style points. Paddled back out with a smile, but peak never really produced anything more other than a few OK rides. Got out and walked down the beach where I’d seen a surprising number of rat packs earlier. Whompy corners made me wishing I had my SB. Quick but did the trick. Walked back to camp had lunch and basked in the mid-day sun lounging with my kiddos.

Packed camp and posted in the lot for the afternoon. Took my girls for their 1st surfs of the year. Youngest got some good belly rides and made attempts to stand up. Pushed my oldest into wave after wave, she was on fire ridding 4 or 5 to the beach before finally wiping out on one. Outside looked a little weird with the big suck out, but someone was making lemonade out of lemons pumping warbled sections and launching airs. Figured I’d give it a go after kids got cold.

Had low expectations not having the best luck on these suck outs, but got out and was surprised when a solid set hit out the back. Tide was low enough now that it was breaking off the outside bar. Long lulls but solid overhead freight train rights had me wishing I had my step up which has been collecting dust recently. Didn’t surf great. Late dropped into one and lost speed to make it around the section. Pulled into a barrel that drubbed me hard. Paddles back out were tough and I was not exactly fresh. Finally put together a few, but the highlight was seeing Timmy Reyes late drop into and stand up barrel paddling back out at one point. After lots of small fun days good to be in some solid overhead surf. Happy New Year!
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Re: Scoring January 2018

Postby X-squid » Tue Jan 02, 2018 3:25 pm

The Cove was beastly this a.m. Everyone scoring, lots of clean-up sets - good times!
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Re: Scoring January 2018

Postby Major Lazer » Tue Jan 02, 2018 3:29 pm

Image
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Re: Scoring January 2018

Postby Tex » Tue Jan 02, 2018 5:28 pm

Thanks for the tease ML....what is that image?????
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Re: Scoring January 2018

Postby pra_ggresion » Tue Jan 02, 2018 7:53 pm

New years day I had a second session at a deeper water spot. Found a leak in the board I was riding earlier but failed to transfer the leash. So had a leashless sunset session on OH steamrollers and only had to swim after my board twice. Probably a 1/4 mile swim each time but the suck made it easy to get back out.

The leashless session was good cause that put me into a mindset for tonights session on the 9'2" gun. Didn't blow a single drop. Surfed a spot we shall refer to as Wisconsin. Got like 15 bombs and that board made it feel like I was cheating. May as well been sweeping.

Sister got me to watch my 9yo nephew for the rest of his Christmas vacay. So tomorrow morning is the last chance for me to get this swell. Should have some substantial size so hopefully it will work out. After that, figured I'd introduce him to some power tools and ways to make farting funner.
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Re: Scoring January 2018

Postby pra_ggresion » Tue Jan 02, 2018 7:55 pm

Stoked to hear your guys' New Year sessions.
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Re: Scoring January 2018

Postby Tex » Tue Jan 02, 2018 8:50 pm

As a dad, I can tell you now, your 9 yr old nephew will have a blast tomorrow with the power tools. And lets be honest, all us old grown men still laugh at farts, so I think your going to have that all dialed in.

A 9'2 gun....sounds like a blast, never ridden anything that big before....biggest board I ever rode, back in 94 was a 7'8. It was fun board but there were pretty big swells I was able to ride with that thing.

That fall, I had been surfing at SS everyday, I was living in Manzanita and also scored a ton of waves in town that year. Anyway, big fall swell hit, super clean....I am not going to call a size but on some days, paddling out it seemed like the whole horizon was tilting when the sets came through.

Anyway, I was all dialed in, waiting for the biggest sets, at least as big as SS could hold. I took off on a bomb, then one of the longboarders took off on the same wave I did....his board was 10ft. I was literally looking up at him 5 ft above me on the same wave and he was not on the lip. Oh to be 23 again =:)
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Re: Scoring January 2018

Postby pra_ggresion » Wed Jan 03, 2018 2:00 pm

Tex that would've been awesome to be living and surfing Oregon before it blew up. Seemed like I started with a wave of others in the early 2000's that frequently brought the crowd size up to 30-60 people at places like the Cove. I use to surf a 9'6" longboard to catch big fat waves until I buckled it and found this 9'2". Really it's pretty much the same strategy as dropping in on a longboard. Just has a little more swoopiness capability on steep faces. If the wave is perfect and predictable enough then I'll ride smaller boards, even if the height is greater. I think people put too much stock in how small a board they ride.

Speaking of which, got one this morning. Unfortunately had to surf solo and the blasting offshore wind made it pretty hard to deal. Size kept increasing and so did the tide which resulted in a fatter and heavier wave over the course of a couple hours. Ended up getting cleaned up by a big ol 'fatty. Called it good after that beating.
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Re: Scoring January 2018

Postby Major Lazer » Wed Jan 03, 2018 2:21 pm

pra_ggresion wrote:Seemed like I started with a wave of others in the early 2000's


The "Blue Crush" wave..... at least wetsuits are insanely good now and sounds like crowds aren't a problem for you most of the time....
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Re: Scoring January 2018

Postby pra_ggresion » Wed Jan 03, 2018 5:09 pm

Major Lazer wrote:
pra_ggresion wrote:Seemed like I started with a wave of others in the early 2000's


The "Blue Crush" wave..... at least wetsuits are insanely good now and sounds like crowds aren't a problem for you most of the time....


Haha the Blue Crush Wave, bunch of posers if you ask me. End of the beginning of that Wave was when they painted lines at the Cove. All downhill from there. Then the Janitors and shortly after, GoProseurs appeared. Bathroom and trail at Agate is going to be the marker for the end of the Central Coast. Actually the arrival of Blue Crush wavers (yours truly) is a better indicator for the end of the mid-coast. I predict the worst to come will be from migration due to climate change.
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Re: Scoring January 2018

Postby Tex » Wed Jan 03, 2018 5:49 pm

I was one of those surfers who obsessed on how short of a board I could ride.

I think it stemmed from buying my first board at a surf shop in Huntington Beach. I remember asking the guy behind the counter about a 6'5 Thruster and if it would be a good beginner board. This was in 1990. He didn't even blink an eye and said, Yeah, this would be perfect for a beginner....SOLD. I was convinced that was going to be my magic board....it was brutal, and stunted my surfing progress by about 2 years.

Finally bought a custom Ricky Young 7'8 egg....and learned how to actually catch waves. But my focus was to keep working towards shorter and shorter boards. The shortest I have now is my 5'0 Simmons model replica which my 12 year old mostly rides now.

I am over it, mostly, still not SUP'ing or even interested in that but definitely open to bigger boards that help me get in a little earlier.
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Re: Scoring January 2018

Postby Major Lazer » Fri Jan 05, 2018 11:21 pm

Self shape sub 6' quad fish fit the bill.... amazing how timeless this shape has been. Finds the kine pockets in Burgerville and burns high calories with a swoop here and there. Had to mean mug an over foamed stinkbuger. Not my style but guy was hassling when I was deeper. There are some rules right? Kinda getting bored of kook cam cove.
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Re: Scoring January 2018

Postby smithgrind » Sun Jan 07, 2018 11:56 am

Kook cam yesterday and if I had checked it probably wouldn't have gone out. Ignorance is bliss and despite
a negative report from Spent we were well on our way past Banks. Pulled into the lot and watched it fill for 45 mins.
before pulling on the wetties and paddled out. Get wet and catch a few but it looked far from motivating as is often the case with this spot. Sets were legit with some solid power in the OH to 2OH range with the wind swell in the chest
range with a bit of unwelcomed texture. Lots of water moving around but surprisingly easy to hold position in the line up.
Caught some clean sets and got lucky with paddling straight back out as opposed to using the rip. Got out about an hour
before high tide and it looked as junky as it did when we pulled up. It was better than it looked from the lot which is the way I like it.
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