Scoring January 2018

[Major Lazer]

And lots of close outs...... long period swells are overrated IMO. Not enough points and reefs and nooks, which prefer the LP swells where open and exposed sand banks don't. That said some big wave spots will be lighting up.

Rating systems are useless IMO esp Magic Seaweed's 5 Start BS.

[Spent]

I agree. Long period can really disappoint up here but every once in awhile it comes together but you have to know where's going to handle it or get lucky...

One of my all time classic Oregon surfs was on 5' @15 seconds (which is not long period... really). Showed up at a small swell open beach type deal with a couple of rocks that kindof/sortof create a feature, to an unexpected surprise. The NW direction in the swell, and the longer period create a wrap around the rocks, settuing up a point break like effect but the sand must have been set up really well also. Never seen it like that since. Shoulder to a few feet overhead zooming rights and dry hair paddle. It only last a few hours and I have never seen it like that since.

South coast- is another story- couple of spots that seem to love a long period South but that's a story that starts next May.

[pra_ggresion]

Grey wettie.... had to have been Slater of Newport otherwise know as "Slabs".

No grey wettie, but I do think it would be kinda cool to wear an excel backwards with the bright blue neoprene and lava chest panel. On a similar note, how come I never see the option to get a wetsuit with a custom print? I want one with a body builder on the front. Even better, a female body builder. Also, how come no one starts a surf gang with their gang symbols printed or sewed onto the prene? Get a big "SLABS" written on the chest in old english, "Bra Boyz II" on the butt.

@Box, I didn't have a surfboard, I was just pushing the kiddo into the white wash on a shortboard. I'm pretty sure I saw someone get a good ride on a green board though. Definitely not a kook in my book if you're out in 'victory at sea' conditions, having a good time while progressing yourself. That's the exact opposite of being a kook.

Got waves and a burrito in Seaside yesterday. It was worth the trip.

[X-squid]

That's it pra! Let's start a surf gang! We can call it El Kook-o's Locos! Or maybe Oceano Vatos Del Norte! Get some kick a$$ hoodies and trucker hats printed up! Yeah!

[BOX]

Thank you everyone! Your input is much appreciated!

The star system on MSW has always been confusing to me. I've had great days when it says one star, and had flat days when it said 4. As mentioned earlier, some 5 stars have been no problem, other times told it was too dangerous. I'm trying to use those now more as a general guideline vs. an authoritative prediction of the conditions.

I may go out tomorrow and see for myself how it looks before deciding to go. Really want to get out in the water (I think about it all week long), but want to be safe about it.

At this point I spend most of my time close-in, so for me it depends on where those really big drops are occurring. If they're way out where the advanced level surfers hang then it might not be such a big deal since I don't spend much time beyond the break. If 10-12 ft. overhead waves are crashing near shore, though, that may make a difference.

@pra - If the guy you saw was far out with the big dogs, that for sure wasn't me. However, if he was close-in, that actually might have been me. I don't see too many other green boards in the water for some reason. Seems like they're usually either red or white. Hmmm.... Either way, thanks for the encouragement. I definitely had fun and continue to. I mean it when I say that there are no bad days in the water. I may be a late starter, but I'm totally hooked. I think about surfing and how I can get better literally every day. I guess I probably don't have to explain that feeling to any of you all...

Anyway, thanks again everyone for taking time to educate the new guy. Sincerely appreciated!

[pra_ggresion]

I'm in x-squid. Blood in that is...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xU6IqRa20Cc

[X-squid]

Bwahaha - I was on a late night youtube rabbit hole a few months ago and watched a good chunk of this. Here's one of my favorite bits of 80's surf nostalgia:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UUINgHgjmgA

[smithgrind]

Quite the scene in Seaside with the mild, sunny weather, light off shores and long period swell running
all day long. Paddled out a couple hours after high tide and was greeted by some juicy sets which weren't
rolling in with enough frequency to keep the packed line up scattered.
As the tide continued to drain, the sets were closing out or offering up only meager sections once you made the drop. Too many beards on longboards ditching their boards as they took sets on the head. If you're gonna cheat on solid overhead days, man up and take that beating with your 9'6" in firm grasp. I don't give a fcuk how far you get washed in.
Lovely day on the coast, good vibes all the way around.

[BOX]

Excited to report that I had one of my best days yet on the water Saturday. I was a bit nervous after our discussion here on whether it was going to be "too big" for me, but it must have been just right 'cause I was catching wave after wave and taking them on long rides one right after another.

I went to Agate and got there around 11-11:30 or so. Although the weather was beautiful, there were only a handful of other people out in the water when I arrived. Made me wonder if there was a reason for that. However, my fears were quickly calmed as very soon I started catching waves and getting some of the best rides I've ever had. Towards the end, I was getting pretty tired but wanted to end on "one more good wave." I finally caught the one I was looking for and I took off fast. I started going over on my right rail and thought I had lost it, but miraculously was able to pull myself back up on my board. Then I went to pop-up, but by this point I was tired and sloppy and thought I blew that as well, but somehow was able to adjust and make it up into a stance. After all of that I thought that there would be nothing left of the wave to ride, but I was wrong and still got a good, long ride. It for sure wasn't my best look, but the fact that I was still able to stick it will have me smiling for awhile.

I should have called it a day after that, but I was down the beach from the staircase and thought I could catch a couple more on my way back up the beach. Should have just walked because I never recaptured the magic. After being out there for almost 3 hours, I was wiped out (literally and figuratively...). Need to work on my endurance because I was feeling it at that point. My head wanted more, but my body definitely had a different opinion.

The place started filling up as I was leaving. As I walked back up the stairs, I saw a guy coming down with a dark green board with white stripes. So I take it back when I said that I never see any other green boards out there...

Anyway, great day on the water and thanks everyone, again, for helping out the new guy reading conditions, etc. Much appreciated!

[smithgrind]

Anyone heading to the Strait this week/weekend? Has potential given the forecast

[Tex]

Man, I should be! My buddy will be up at his cabin this weekend...could be fun.

[Major Lazer]

6 days of camping, sunshine, warmish water (high 60's), long period swell, and sand bottomed right points……. didn’t miss Oregon surf one bit.

[Tex]

When are you going to drop some pics of that little adventure????????????????????

[Major Lazer]

Didn't really get anything to good of waves and actual surfing. Not that many surfers and to busy surfing myself. Forgot my old point and shoot with decent zoom and I'm stuck with an iPhone 5 at the moment. I posted a few to my private feed which I believe you are in on.

[Tex]

cool bro...thanks!