Took the day off.... not really because I wanted to. More because I had to. Project work has been pretty dry for me as of late, which is starting to get a tad bit scary. But that's another story

So instead of networking, job hunting, and the professional development I should of been doing as a sole providing middle class Portlander (did I just say that), went sarfing.
Looked alright (nothing epic like Morocco) and nothing like Dec's butter when I pulled in, but pretty quiet. Swell not living up to buoy data either. Suited booted and spent the 1st 45 minutes bogging on my step down shortboard. Shoulda opted for deer heads vs social securities.... oh well. Looked pretty snappy thou and figured I'd be tuned after 10 days in Moroc, but alas it had been almost 3 weeks. Out of sync out of step.... city life does no good and I dont care how many fooking shops there are here now. This is no place to be a aging (or even young) surfer.
But I digress..... tide was filling so went in and grabbed the Pavel Rainbow twinny and pearled on my first and best looking wave. Eventually dialed it in mostly went fast and straight on my forehand taking off super deep high lining off the drop and working it into the channel. Yeah kinda gets boring for me, like turning more, but had one little head dip on inside double up. Had some backsiders too that did allow for a wrapty wrap wrap. Keels feeling better on backhand after a few surfs on this board this winter.
Ended up being a 4 hour sesh, so guess it kept me interested and I was living in moment the vs worrying about the future. But on drive home started worrying about traffic killing the vibe and how pissed I was going to get like I often can, but after some BS around 185th, the fooking Sylvan wasn't that bad. Made that illegal U turn off of Kirby and blazed up the hipster hwy and got home just in time to see my daughters still playing out front before dinner. Days are getting longer......
Routine is a vampire. Manu Chao-