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Maxin May

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Re: Maxin May

Postby Howly Wolf » Wed May 30, 2018 10:24 am

Zzz
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Re: Maxin May

Postby Major Lazer » Thu May 31, 2018 10:29 am

Nice..... lived in that region for some time while in college and working for parks in the ealry to mid 90's. Prob where I will retire part time and head for warmer waters in winter. Need to get down there sooner than later. Shortsands waves and the north coast vibe and crowds fooking blow, although there are some freakaziods down that way and where I have seen legit surf Nazis. PO was a KKK headquarters at one point as well. Then you have Pelican Bay and all the prison families living in Crusty. Interesting juxtaposition between human culture and nature..... :|
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Re: Maxin May

Postby Howly Wolf » Thu May 31, 2018 3:48 pm

Zzz
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Re: Maxin May

Postby Tex » Fri Jun 01, 2018 8:27 am

I feel like the old timers at Malibu have all had the conversation we are having about the N. Coast. "the Portland Monthly crowd"....so classic!

I am stoked just to watch my boy paddle outside the rip and get past a couple outside sets.

Plus....there simply is no crowd factor at first light.....for now. Dawn patrol and Evening glass off sessions are the only way to do N. Coast now.
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Re: Maxin May

Postby BOX » Fri Jun 01, 2018 4:38 pm

Thanks, Howly! Although I honestly can’t say every day, I do practice my dry land pop-ups on most days. I’ve added it into my regular workout, so basically, instead of doing burpees I do those instead. I have a pretend “stringer” line that I center on with a desired target for my back foot. After I pop-up I try to stay crouched for a few beats (I have a habit of standing straight up right away), look ahead, then check my footing to make sure I’m in place. Works great in the gym. In practice, though, it’s, um… less than perfect.

I recently made the following adjustments: I started putting my left hand higher and my right hand lower when I chicken wing to get me into better position faster when I spring up (I’m regular/natural footed). I have found this to help a lot. I’m also working at coming off the instep of my right (back) foot (or using no foot at all) instead of coming up off my toes. Supposedly this is a bad habit for long boarders that I need to break now since I won’t have the luxury to use my foot if I ever graduate to a short board. Also, if I come off the instep instead of my toes my foot’s already in place facing right vs. straight ahead saving some time for me having to turn/adjust it. Finally, a couple weeks back a random dude told me to not let go of the board until I’m ready to stand up. Sounded so common sense that I wanted to say, “no $h1t, huh?” but afterwards in practice I noticed a lot of times I was just jumping straight to my feet standing hoping somehow they landed in position vs. staying low and crouched, making sure I was in good position and balance first before coming all of the way up (if that makes any sense). So, that actually ended up being some good free advice.

I also admit a significant portion of my troubles could be (is) mental as well. I’ve got to build more confidence in the water. I tend to get shaken up after a few bad pearls then end up waiting too long. Gotta turn off that fear. But, man, I hate eating it. All the more reason to get better.

Thanks, everyone, for helping out and indulging this middle-age kook. I tend to use self-deprecating humor a lot, but I truly love surfing and I’m going to get proficient at this sport if/until it kills me. I know tone is hard to decipher in text, but if it ever seems like I’m down it’s only because I know where I want to be and get frustrated at my (seemingly) slow progress getting there. Trust me, my stoke is high. I’m not trying to be Kelly Slater (or Ben Gravy, Tex :wink: ), just a competent guy out there catching unbroken waves. But I truly mean it when I say there’s no bad days in the water. I learn something even from my worst sessions, I get to be outside in nature, and when I’m out I’m not thinking about anything else other than catching that next wave. Can’t really complain about that.
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Re: Maxin May

Postby Spent » Sun Jun 03, 2018 11:13 am

Just got back from a week south of the border. Forecast didn't look amazing but there was something to surf everyday and after the Memorial crowds left- very few people. A little southerly pulse came thru every once in awhile if you were patient. Time was all I had so waiting was OK for once. Had a couple of sessions completely to myself. Surfed everything from a stubby 5'8" to a 9'2" log. Eight sessions in six days, a sh*t tonne of waves and tacos. Can't complain. Hopefully, no hepatitis.... Oh and I made it from K38 in Baja to San Diego airport for $6.50. Pretty stoked on that accomplishment.
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Re: Maxin May

Postby Tex » Sun Jun 03, 2018 4:13 pm

Did you drop some pics on Insta? Looked like a damn good time. Heading down to Mex this December for the first time, super amped.
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Re: Maxin May

Postby smithgrind » Sun Jun 03, 2018 4:32 pm

Spent wrote:.... Oh and I made it from K38 in Baja to San Diego airport for $6.50. Pretty stoked on that accomplishment.

The mexler way is the only way.
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Re: Maxin May

Postby Spent » Sun Jun 03, 2018 5:22 pm

smithgrind wrote:
Spent wrote:.... Oh and I made it from K38 in Baja to San Diego airport for $6.50. Pretty stoked on that accomplishment.

The mexler way is the only way.


I did it cheaper than Mexler. He crumbled and Ubered.
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Re: Maxin May

Postby Spent » Sun Jun 03, 2018 5:23 pm

Tex wrote:Did you drop some pics on Insta? Looked like a damn good time. Heading down to Mex this December for the first time, super amped.


Yep. Where you going?
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Re: Maxin May

Postby smithgrind » Sun Jun 03, 2018 6:39 pm

Spent wrote:
smithgrind wrote:
Spent wrote:.... Oh and I made it from K38 in Baja to San Diego airport for $6.50. Pretty stoked on that accomplishment.

The mexler way is the only way.


I did it cheaper than Mexler. He crumbled and Ubered.

Weak gringo. Rather disappointing...
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Re: Maxin May

Postby smithgrind » Sun Jun 03, 2018 7:04 pm

I heard the water was warm at the coast yesterday so I rallied up the fam and rolled down to Malibu norte for
the afternoon push. Really fun sesh on the 5'6" CI hi5 between 2nd and 3rd with longer lefts and a few right
hand corners when the angle was proper. Scratched into a HH set wave and ran over some bloke who thought I was
going left but I had the right on my mind. I jumped off my board just as we were about to collide and he dove off
of his. I heard that crack of glass on glass just as I my feet hit the water...ooops. No harm, no foul but a slight bummer
knowing this board is gonna need to be dry docked for repair. I've been digging on this groveler recently and was looking
forward to riding it more.

It's funny, since I've become a dad I've been dinging boards left and right. Two collisions at SS and two butterfingered bagged boards that were dropped on the rail in my driveway. I don't have the free time to fix them due to daddy duty now so Low Tide has been getting my $.
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Re: Maxin May

Postby Major Lazer » Mon Jun 04, 2018 9:49 am

Spent sounds like a fun trip and some sneaky swell. The big souths create the hype and the crowds esp in that zone being in the bro cal shadow. Crazy you were surfing alone.

SG yeah man water was warm. Seems like its been a few years since I have worn the 4 mill sans hood.

Peaced out of the office at 4:20 on on Friday and pointed it towards a zone I've had good luck with this spring. There was a nice little mid period west pulsing on the buoy and not much wind! Paddled out to oily evening glass and CH-HH peaks. The smell of the ocean was pungent and I don't often smell that smell being an old salt. Think it was the calmness. A few lefts but mostly rights. 5 other heads up the beach, a few drifting through every now and again. But it was mostly my buddy and I trading waves and hooting each other into some punchy drops and back lit green walls. Not a ton of turns and some of them shouldered quicker than others, but oh so glassy. Had the go to 6' shorty set up as a quad with my Stretch FU glass S2's which made my board a little to fast for these waves, although I was able to high line a few of the bigger set waves for some of my longer rides. Buddy paddled in and surfed hans solo until about 9 pm. Gotta love when things come together this close to the solstice.

Stayed the night slept like a baby and hit it again muy temprano...... smaller CH-WH, but more rippable and some good opps to put it on a rail for some full frontside wraps. Kept the S2 set up but took the quad rears out and put the thruster center fin in. Inside foil of the fronts offered the perfect amount of drive, not to fast, and pivotal as thruster. This was the better set up for the small bowls and quick direction changes need. Lefts were more plentiful as well offering some good backside hacks to tail drifts. Surfed for 3 hours until I was totally noodled. Watched the wind come up and headed home to chill with to fam and watch my team take a 2-1 lead in the Stanley Cup finals. Epic few days and much better wave results than weekend before. Stoked.
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Re: Maxin May

Postby BOX » Mon Jun 04, 2018 4:12 pm

Got about 3 hours in at Agate on Sunday. Nice session for me. Not perfect, but definitely progressing so I left smiling. Of course, there are no bad days in the water.

However, once out of the water, as soon as I got to the top of the stairs I saw that my car tire was totally flat. I was worried about who I pissed off in the water, but (luckily?) it looked like I just ran over a screw. Since I live only a few minutes away, I had salt dawged it so now I guess I can add "changing a tire" to my growing list of things I never thought I would do in a wet suit...

But overall good day. There was a nice reform wave that was giving CH looks for the intermediate crowd. There were about 3-4 other heads nice enough to share the wave with me (the advanced set had their own nice looking wave farther out), which was cool since I pearled pretty much every time. But I did catch a nice ride at the end, so I had that to go home on.

Quick question for you all: Which is more kookier in your eyes? Seeing someone hanging out in the impact zone but being able to catch whitewater/reformed waves consistently... OR ... seeing someone paddle out back but miss/waste waves consistently?
Last edited by BOX on Mon Jun 11, 2018 8:50 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Maxin May

Postby Spent » Tue Jun 05, 2018 7:07 am

BOX wrote:
Quick question for you all: Which is more kookier in your eyes? Seeing someone hanging out in the impact zone but being able to catch whitewater/reformed waves consistently... OR ... seeing someone paddle out back but miss/waste waves consistently?


You're not being kooky. Just surf and don't worry about it. You know what's kooky?- Hydro-foils in a crowd.
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