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Maxin May

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Re: Maxin May

Postby Tex » Tue Jun 05, 2018 7:25 am

Agree with Spent....none of those decisions are kookish.

Riding reforms definitely helps up your riding time. Just a note, the impact zone can be a dangerous place to hang out if there are other surfers near by, it significantly increases the % of getting run over.

Catching waves before they break is the art of timing....you have to be out in front of the wave just enough for it to allow you to drop in. When I first started surfing, I missed so many waves because I was paddling too early and I was too far back on my board. Remember, you want to be able to touch the nose of your board when paddling, that usually means you are forward enough to help push the weight of the board down the face earlier. Assuming you are not riding a long board, in which case, I can't really help with advice since I have only ridden one of those boards a handful of times and literally kook out on them.
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Re: Maxin May

Postby BOX » Tue Jun 05, 2018 4:56 pm

Thanks, Spent and Tex. I feel like I'm at the point where I need to push myself and start paddling out farther and shoot for catching the bigger waves if I want to progress, but I don't want to kill anyone's vibe in the line-up, either. Rather I'd get pounded in the whitewater than get pounded by 5 pissed off dudes in the parking lot for wasting their waves...

I have an 8' bright green foamie. The same kind they rent out to first-timers. I call it a long board, but I hear of people riding 9'6" logs, so what do I know? (clearly not much, if you've been following along :wink: ) I can definitely touch the nose when I'm paddling. I have decent reach.

Here is how it normally goes for me when trying to catch a bigger wave: I see the unbroken swell coming so I position my board towards the beach. I arch my back and start paddling. I can feel the swell lift me up from behind and just as I feel the push the next thing I know I'm looking straight down at the drop. Before I can even think, "well, sh1t" I go pearl diving big time. When I try to adjust for the next time, I over correct and miss the wave completely. Can't seem to find the middle ground (or middle water?)

This is where I believe my pop-up problem comes in. I think I am supposed to be popping up in the milliseconds between looking down at the drop and when I pearl over but I'm too slow. I'm sure there's more going on than that, but right now that's my main sticking point. Really trying to break through that wall right now so I'm just drill, drill, drilling that pop-up until you need a fast action lens just to see it. I've definitely made an improvement in that department, but I for sure still have a long ways to go.

Thanks again, everyone, for your tips and encouragement. It is sincerely appreciated.
Last edited by BOX on Mon Jun 11, 2018 8:55 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Maxin May

Postby Howly Wolf » Tue Jun 05, 2018 9:19 pm

Zzz
Last edited by Howly Wolf on Sat Oct 01, 2022 7:08 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Maxin May

Postby Spent » Wed Jun 06, 2018 9:00 am

On longer boards sometimes you have to push the board out a bit when you jump up to get further back towards the tail. Basically, as you push up also push the board forward a tad while you unweight and get that back foot closer to the tail. Agate can be tricky as it can be a dumpy close-out unless you are in really good position and can get in early on the outside.
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Re: Maxin May

Postby BOX » Wed Jun 06, 2018 5:23 pm

I get the impression you’re riding big green straight down the closeout, which may explain your pearling problem


I think your suspicions are pretty close there, Howly. And I've definitely given some thought to a new board, but was holding out until I felt I could do it justice and had the skills to use it right. I figure if I'm going to beat something up, it might as well be my foamie.

Agate can be tricky as it can be a dumpy close-out unless you are in really good position and can get in early on the outside


Yeah, closeouts haven't been as big of a deal in the whitewater, but could definitely be a factor now. The past few times I've gone out for bigger waves I've tried to position myself right where I think the shoulder will be once the wave rolls in but those may be closing out on me instead. I've been watching a lot of videos to see how to position myself correctly. Looking forward to paddling out there again to try to put all of these tips to the test.

Thanks again, everyone. Your help is much appreciated!
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Re: Maxin May

Postby Major Lazer » Thu Jun 07, 2018 10:17 am

I'd say get new board too if you want to progress quicker. 7'6" LIB pick up stick would be a good one that could take just as much of a beating as any foamy. Now as for you body, LIB is going to hurt more. But hey no pain, no gain. :D
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Re: Maxin May

Postby BOX » Thu Jun 07, 2018 4:46 pm

Thanks, ML. You anticipated my next question which was what should I pick up next :)

That Lib tech board definitely looks nice. Gonna have to save up some extra $ though because I've got to figure out a way to pick it up outside the regular family budget. It's almost like they value trivial things like food and shelter over funding my recreation :wink:
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