by Major Lazer » Mon Jul 02, 2018 10:50 am
Punched the clock at 4:20 on Friday and peddled home to jump in van and head out to meet my buddy again. Was dreading potential traffic cluster F and a beer on the porch vs. 2 hour drive was tempting, but strangely it was chill and a good podcast made the drive go by quick.
Got to the spot after watching glassy cams all day only to find the wind had had come up and the little swell forested (4@11) had pretty much died and never really materialized like it was supposed to. Buddy had been posted all day, was on beer number 3, and said it was fun enough from about 7:30 am - 9 am. I decided not to surf, dig into a six'er of Budweiser, and hope for the best in the AM.
Sat AM swell was down to 3@8. Humned and hawed in the lot for an hour contemplating LB or quad fish and finally suited and booted for a deparado. Didn't want to go home dry.... ended up having a better one than anticipated. Early AM oil glass and reasonably good sand bars at this spot as of late made it surfable. Quad fish ended up being the call on grindy thigh to waist peaks that were tight fast little bowls ending in 1' of water. LB would of been really hard. Definitely a grovel sesh and if my buddy wasnt in town prob not worth the drive, but good to get wet and nice way to start the day.
Routine is a vampire. Manu Chao-