by Major Lazer » Tue Jun 26, 2018 8:32 pm
Plan was to combo yest eve and this am, but stupid summer sched 1 car family valley probs F'ed up my plan.
Banged out as soon as I could around 7:30 am and got to my local just as the wind was switching from off to side. Yes easties in June a rare treat due to a strengthening gradient slightly inland. Nice and quiet in da lot. Shoulda changed fins from Stretch S2 thruster set up I rode last surf in smaller glassy workable peaks vs. some size and sweepy peaks, but was frooohooothing going on a 3 week dry spell and knew wind was coming.
Solid mid period swell..... always keen on 11-12 seconds for the beachies. Meet a very old and dear friend form the south coast who was passing though and we paddled just as there was a small shift change. Thumpy and dumpy with some good corners on the right ones. Fist wave, dropped into a OH set wave and went down like a ton of bricks and got drilled. Came up laughing to sight of buddy flying DTL on a used Buzz he scored at Ossies on the way up. Made me miss mine.... my go to magic SB seemed like a dog. Sticky and weird. Wasn't perfect shape, a bit bouncy and sweeping down the line without a ton of face to work with. Shoulda laced it as a quad or put in my trusty AM2's cause it was hard to get traction on the face for pumpage and needed insta speed off the drop. Eventually put it together and got some turnage, one nice feeling backside hack. Middle sized ones were best.
All and all not my day thou. 3 weeks dry plus valley rot no bueno. Going to blame it on the fins and not my fat assed low testosterone middle aged self. Still had fun and good to see some snappy swell this time of year under sunny warm skies with no vibers and surf with an old bro. Yo ho ho and a bottle of Brass Monkey.......
Routine is a vampire. Manu Chao-