by Spent » Sat Jun 16, 2018 9:34 am
International- look for mediocre waves, paddle out into cold water, in a thick wetsuit in June to what looks like it could be a peak, wondering why you're sharing the 'line-up' with dozens of other wankers with the same hapless dream, you're not happy to see them, they're not happy to see you, competing for below average sub par slop with fellow valley kooks, a few stink eyes from entitled locals, watching the janitors get the best waves, especially that one janitor who's poo-man stance is so extreme the crotch on his wetsuit is about to blow, finally something comes you're way but your back has now seized up from sitting in cold water watching the shite show for too long, so you stumble to your feet on what looks to be a half decent wave, your mind is already flowing down the line, thinking about where you are going to turn and go off the lip so hard bro, you get a decent bottom turn and then it closes out on your chest but no worries you can recover and get back on the shoulder and you do but then it becomes a gutless crumbler that even the grovliest of grovel boards doesn't want anything to do with, but you're holding onto he dream that there'll be one section at least, to make a Dane Reynolds inspired turn, nope its done, you flop into the shallows, grab your board to think about paddling back out for more disappointment only to see a stand up foil boarder slicing his way through the crowd on wave of the day- Day.
First Gay Marriage, then legal weed and now a goddamn skatepark in PC.