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What makes a competent surfer?

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What makes a competent surfer?

Postby BOX » Tue Jul 24, 2018 1:23 pm

Just thought I'd throw this out there for the sake of discussion. I read a handful of surf forums (don’t worry, OSP, you’re the only one I post on :wink: ) and the topic of “what makes a surfer” comes up from time to time.

There seems to be two schools of thought around this. One goes along the line of “’do you go into the water with a surfboard?’ Then you’re a surfer!” while the other is basically a list of prerequisites (length and composition dependent on the person) that one must meet before they can even consider themselves a surfer. One regular commenter even goes as far as telling folks they are “delusional” about being a surfer if they can’t do A, B, & C list of things.

I’m the last person to judge anyone on their ability, so I tend to lean towards the former definition. I like to surf, I have the equipment, I go regularly, so therefore I’d like to consider myself a surfer. However, when talking to other people who actually know how to surf well (hello, all) I definitely do not feel like a surfer. I feel like the kook that I really am.

So, while I doubt I’ll ever really be satisfied with my ability level, based on a few other discussions I’ve read, I’ve cobbled together a list of goals that I have set for myself in order to feel like a (more) competent surfer. Or, if anything, a little bit less of a kook.

That all being said, what makes a competent surfer?

Having the ability to:
1) Read a surf report and glean pertinent information from it
2) Paddle out to the lineup without issue
3) Duck dive/turtle roll without issue
4) Catch a green/unbroken wave consistently
5) Drop in and Pop-up cleanly and consistently
6) Trim left or right on a wave consistently
7) Do a bottom turn and go back up the wave consistently

I’m sure there’s more, especially regarding etiquette, etc., but those are my current goals. Making good progress on some, others I still have a bit more work to do. Anything I left out? Anything I put in that should be taken out? In your opinion, what makes a competent surfer?
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Re: What makes a competent surfer?

Postby Tex » Wed Jul 25, 2018 11:10 am

Box, you have a great set of goals listed above....with consistent number of sessions, you will check those off your list for sure.

As far as who is a surfer or who is not.....I really could give 2 shits about how anyone else would define what I do in the water. I paddle around on a surfboard, catch as many waves as I can, ride them as long as I can.

I would say you are definitely a surfer Box....welcome to the tribe brother.

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Re: What makes a competent surfer?

Postby BOX » Fri Jul 27, 2018 9:33 am

Thanks, Tex. I appreciate the encouragement. I've been making some good progress this summer but still far from where I want to be. It can get discouraging at times, particularly after a non-productive session, but when that happens I try to compare where I'm at today and the things I'm currently working on to when I first started out and it's obvious that I'm making progress over time, even if it doesn't feel like it session-to-session. And, of course, I always remind myself that there are no bad days in the water. That usually helps.
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Re: What makes a competent surfer?

Postby Howly Wolf » Sat Jul 28, 2018 2:07 pm

Man, I can't spell bathymetry correctly without using spellcheck and therefore feel like an incompetent surfer. Standards change, Box, and feeling inadequate is part of the incredible journey of surfing! It's that drive that challenges us to progress and put ourselves into new, uncomfortable, and sometimes dangerous situations. The challenge is to be ok in that place of unknowing. Are you up for it Box? Are you pumped to paddle out into the abyss, freeze for your waves, surf until your arms give out, and then do it again tomorrow? One day, your gonna check off all those items on your list and you'll have a new one-- and, if you're like me, you'll look back at those salad days of kooking it up and recall the naive stoke that comes with learning the basics. You surf if you love surfing-- enjoy the journey!
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Re: What makes a competent surfer?

Postby Major Lazer » Mon Jul 30, 2018 11:46 am

Etiquette for sure. Knowing how to stay out of the way. For example take a lip vs. paddling for the shoulder and getting in the way someones ride. I've seen competent surfers do this.
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Re: What makes a competent surfer?

Postby BOX » Fri Aug 03, 2018 11:43 am

Thanks again everyone for the encouragement. Please don’t ever doubt my stoke. I get frustrated at my lack of progress sometimes because I love surfing so much yet have such little skill. It’s a mismatch that is currently driving me crazy. I don’t know anyone IRL who surfs so I really don’t have anyone to talk to about it except my wife… who doesn’t surf. So I post on here to talk things out and have conversations with actual surfers. I know my posts get long, so thanks all for indulging me.

Howly, I’m up for it. Trust me. I’m going to learn this sport or die trying.

Here is where I’m at currently trying to reach these goals:

Having the ability to:
1) Read a surf report and glean pertinent information from it

I’m definitely still learning, but I read Surfline and Magicseaweed pretty much daily along with a few other sites out there to gauge what the ocean is doing day-to-day even when I’m not going out. I’m at the dangerous point where people who don’t read the reports think I’m knowledgeable while those who understand them think I'm full of $hit. Still reading, still learning. I suppose that will never change.

2) Paddle out to the lineup without issue

I typically can paddle out without issue. There was one day when it was really big that I couldn’t punch through, but for the most part I have no problem. I’m pretty fit and I know how to swim. Admittedly I need to work on my paddle fitness, though. Going out a few times is no problem. After doing it a bunch of times in a session, though, along with paddling hard for waves, I start to get a bit tired. Just got to keep going at it until my stamina/endurance improves.

3) Duck dive/turtle roll without issue

I turtle with my big foamy. I typically have no problem unless heavy, short period sets are coming in. The day I couldn’t paddle out I just kept getting hammered with breakers. As soon as I could catch my breath I would just get pounded again. But on most days I have no problem spinning the board, getting back on, and start paddling again.

4) Catch a green/unbroken wave consistently

Not consistently. I’ve been able to catch small stuff from the outside (typically 3 feet and under) but I’m still getting thrown hard on the bigger waves. Haven’t been able to make those bigger drops. It feels great on the smaller waves, though. This area has been my biggest improvement this summer and it is one of my goals to consistently catch those bigger waves by fall.

5) Drop in and Pop-up cleanly and consistently

I’m still slow (which is probably a big factor in why I can’t make those big drops), but my technique has definitely improved. I took the fins off my board and parked it in my living room for a while and practiced day and night until I got it down on the board vs. just flat on my floor. It seems to have helped as I’ve been getting up no problem lately. Just need to be more explosive. Most likely a timing/mental issue that I need to get over.

6) Trim left or right on a wave consistently

I’ve trimmed right a handful of times on small waves. Nothing to write home about. Mostly I go straight and then turn right. I went left once. It was totally an accident, but man, it was glorious.

7) Do a bottom turn and go back up the wave consistently

Nope. Not even close yet. But hopefully getting there relatively soon.


Major, I’m trying to learn the etiquette but mostly I try to stay out of everyone’s way. I don’t know if line-up rules are not followed at Agate, or I’m just not getting it. Seems like everyone goes for every wave regardless of priority. I just try to wait until the second or third roller comes in after everyone else has taken off to try to make sure I don’t accidently drop-in or snake someone else. I get a few looks of derision and suspicion when I paddle out, but so far no one has called me out or punched me in the face so I’ve taken that as a positive sign.
Last edited by BOX on Thu Aug 16, 2018 4:54 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: What makes a competent surfer?

Postby Howly Wolf » Fri Aug 03, 2018 12:51 pm

Sounds like you're well on your way, Box. A lot of your goals correlate and I have no doubt all the skills you're working on will sync up when the time is right-- it may actually surprise you. Good luck and don't forget to write up a few of your adventures on the monthlies! Could use a little Agate local variety in the mix!
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Re: What makes a competent surfer?

Postby Spent » Sat Aug 04, 2018 7:39 am

I was having this convo with my brother the other day. He was always way more naturally gifted than me but I always put more time in. He never really surfed but I took him out on an easy day on an easy board back home and he was laughing 'this is too easy. I might get my own board.' He was catching waves, popping up and making the drop with ease. Quite impressive but I didn't tell him. Instead, I laughed and said, you've got to put at least a decade in before you can claim competence for a lot of reasons (including ML's take on etiquette). Anyway, next day the surf had doubled. It was still really fun and playful and I was having a rad session. Meanwhile he was getting caught inside and getting caught in rips up and down the beach. Normally, I'd watch out for someone I was taking surfing but since it was my cocky little brother, I let him get into a bit of trouble and have his ego smashed for a bit before intervening. Fun times. He was exhausted after an hour. I said, see you in two more, I'm going to milk this a bit...

Unfortunately if he gets a board and puts the time in, he will likely be as good as me in half the time.
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