by Howly Wolf » Wed Aug 22, 2018 8:45 am
Last few days had me on a mission to the central coast, checking out a spot that's been on my radar for awhile, but had only ever seen from the eye in the sky. Figured the geology was interesting enough to warrant the drive and a few backup spots were close enough to get my fix. Well, all backups went out the window when I got there to find two guys surfing a long running right, consistently HH even on that modest 5 @ 8. You guys would've made fine work of it. Anyhow, these guys pretty much wrapped up their session soon after I got there and due to many visible hazards, I was pretty wary about surfing it alone. Did a lot of watching, waiting, more watching, some sleeping, waiting for the fog to burn off, blah blah blah. Was starting to get "the fear" when all of sudden this guy, apparently a well-known area surf photographer, shows up amped to go out. Based on all my observation, it didn't seem like the right tide state to go out, but I figured this was as perfect an opportunity as I was going to get, so suited up and proceeded to get brutalized in the in-zone. Caught one ok wave, but mostly just settled for exercise. Dude caught some good ones, but afterwards admitted conditions were pretty junky. As soon as he left, conditions settled and four locals showed up to surf that right.
So a lot of words here for a lame duck session, but I'm still pretty stoked because now I know that this spot delivers and have a better idea of when/how to surf it. Plus I gave it a shot, which is a better feeling than the old "what-if?" Took the long way home and got a few more sessions with better results. Now back to the grind, but feeling refreshed with some new goals and the motivation to work toward them. They're definitely within reach, but some lap swimming is definitely in order to get there...
howl can be?