So Wilbur still waxes poetic about wave sliding even though he gave up the ghost a while ago...this is a recent FB post of his.
"What you think you see here is not real. At least not as you think. The wave you see is the physical reaction of an unseen force that moves through the medium that is the water you see. The surfer is propelled down the face of the wave by gravity. However those are only mere moments. What is truly happening is he is being propelled forward by an invisible energy band that has moved through the water four thousands of miles. It has reached this place where the depth of water is less than the height of the band and it is forced to double over on itself. as it does, it pitches its energy up and forward. It carries water forward at this point, and only at this point is the displacement of water significant. Before now, the band moved through the water, at this point, the water moves with it. And when all the elements come together, direction, height, bottom contour, depth, tide stage, wind, human spirit, you may witness such a thing as this. I've ridden countless waves. Many of which I still ride when I close my eyes at night."