...but when it does.
It feels like the universe is spoiling you. Maybe the water is a little warmer and the crowd is a little thinner. You're surfing in good company or alone. At a standby spot thats choosing to go off or you stumble on waves you wouldn't normally think to check. And you have all the time in the world. Feeling fit. Right board, right tide. You've found the peak and the waves come to you even though you're not really trying. You're timing is perfect and you make no mistakes. You're surfing just beyond your norm. And it goes on for a few hours. Two hours in you have to pinch yourself. Three hours in you're exhausted but have to milk it for a few more. Finally you get out of shear exhaustion. You sit on the beach, bluff, rocks wherever the f*ck you are, crack a tin and wonder what the hell you did to deserve that session.
Doesn't happen often.
But if its going to happen. Its probably Sept-December. Hold in there bros.
Side note, I had a mystical skate sesh today. Really wasn't motivated but forced myself to go. Park was mostly empty and it was hot. I was skating a board, I really don't like. I'm only riding it b/c I want to kill it before setting up a freshie. Anyway, some weird sh*t went down, whereby I couldn't f@#K up. I was half-arsing tricks and not really wanting them but still landing them. I've only ever done 3 backside 360 no-complies in 30+ years of skateboarding and today I landed one first try. Decided to not get too excited and hold the moment for a little. Even got stuck in traffic and then behind a train on the way home but kept my cool.
Sorry to sound like a f*cking hippy but I've got to thank the universe for the gifts of surfing and skateboarding today... without them modern life would f*cking cripple me.