by Howly Wolf » Wed Sep 12, 2018 3:26 pm
Made a bet with the fetch last night and lost. Heave-ho conditions at Shorties, but south wind blew in some warm water and crowd was nil. Felt like I was trippin', as the HH/OH cross swell tossed me to and fro under the fire-in-sky sunset-- everything glowing. The waves themselves were mangled and lazy, but every once in awhile a clean set would roll through. Ended up getting my best ride yet out of the new shortboard, which got me amped. I roll with the theory that if I can manage crappy conditions, I'll be even better when I surf ideal waves. I have no proof that this is actually the case, but whatever-- I got my kicks either way.
Stayed the night and got in a dawn sesh. Conditions were ultra clean, but waves had mellowed out to about chest high and were peeling between 1st and 2nd quite nicely. Trippiness remained on full blast with rainbows, foggy mountains, and massive, sunlit cloudbursts. Surfed alone for about an hour before other heads started showing up and by that time I was wrapping up to head to work anyway. After waiting awhile to redeem "the left that got away" I got slammed in a shallow breaking closeout, exacerbating my most recent skate injury. Called it a day, because if I can't leave in glory, I might as well leave in pain.
howl can be?