by Howly Wolf » Tue Oct 16, 2018 8:35 pm
Just wrapped up a two week vacation, harvesting October huck. First week was a bust-- first there was no swell, then I got sick right before leaving, and then, after rallying up to the peninsula, strained my back on a maxed out beach break in the Twilight Zone. Not much of a story there, just stayed out too long and overdid it. Injury was pretty debilitating, so 180'd back to PDX to post up with easy access to ice and heating pad. Did manage to score the build up to that first big autumn pulse, however, and it was a blast. 1st beach was shaping pretty nicely with a few hollow peaks offering a bit of cover. The swell that did me in was about 6@14 creating solid OH ramps amidst thumping close outs-- caught a few decent rides before getting bent out of shape, so at least I had some stoke to get me through the healing process.
Next couple days were a drag, but entertained myself looking for good deals on surfboards (because capitalism heals all wounds, right?). Found a design I've had my eye on and dimensions and price suited me, so figured I'd make the most out of this cruel hand fate dealt, and ponied up. Spoiler alert: it rips-- ended up getting some of the best rides of my trip on it, one particular left earning a shaka from a local charger who had a front row seat as they were paddling out. Truly cool.
But I'm getting ahead of myself... After healing my back to a manageable degree, hit the road again and visited my favorite breaks from PC to PO. Swell was mellow for the most part, but exactly what I needed to strengthen the spine. Bluebird skies and warm air temp helped immensely. First session back in the water was some good 4'-6' at Chambers on a 7'6 funboard-- not exactly the style king over there (Gaz was holding that down) but perfect for a stiff lumbar, long meandering rollers and sweeping bottom turns. I surfed well enough I think, but it didn't matter-- was just so so happy to be out surfing again. The stoke was so powerful that it must've opened up a chakra or something, because stage was set for a high frequency vibe tribe kind of trip. Got to surf with a lot of rad people-- familiar faces, local talent, dropouts, OG's, lifers-- and of course an abundance of solo sessions in primo scenery. Managed satisfying rides in every session but one, and that one session was just a fun carpe diem rally in nuking N winds at a spot with enough cover to minimize the chop.
The forecasted SW swell wasn't quite making it into port, so headed back to a zone not too far away and posted up there for the weekend. The swell was modest (3 @ 16), but the offshores ratcheted things up immensely. Spot was, and still is, going off-- sandbars galore and an abundance of barreling zippers to choose from up and down the beach, every one offering makeable tubes. Did not pull any myself, sadly, but was coming quite close. I finally feel synced up with my 6'4 now that I'm riding conditions it's meant for and the new 7'1 handled very well on the fuller, sloping ramps. My back is now at 80 %, endurance is up considerably, and I'm feeling pretty fluid all things considered. Things didn't go as planned, but I feel like I made the most of what I got and am surfing better than I ever have. Hopefully, I'll be back in the water in the next few days to keep the vibe alive, but gotta clean myself up and pay off the new stick before the adventure can recommence. Hope you all are getting some-- Croptober is alive and kicking.
howl can be?