by Howly Wolf » Thu Nov 22, 2018 4:14 pm
On the hook to attend a Thanksgiving get-together tonight, so got in a few sessions first to stoke the appetite. Showed up yesterday afternoon to a crowd converged on the slightest of bumps. Waited out the tide and by the time I paddled in, the W swell was delivering quite nicely. Strangely, the crowd thinned out considerably, right as the waves ramped up, so I was pretty pleased with the timing. Waves were HH for the most part with a bit of southerly lump to them; long intervals between sets made for a waiting room vibe, but also low-effort paddle outs when needed. Managed a few heady drops and lengthy lines, but felt off due to some anxiety about work stuff that I blew off to surf. Head noise notwithstanding, got in two sessions with satisfying rides, mild crowd, and a wintery piss gray sunset to top it off.
By this morning, work angst was long gone and the swell had ramped up to a solid 6 @ 12. Wind was very gusty at other points south, but cooperating quite nicely at the spot. Caught a choice window between low-ish tide close outs and the mid-morning crowd and managed a few thrills before it was time to jet. Aside from a right that kept going and going, highlight was glimpsing two sea lions surfing side-by-side on an outside bomb right in front of me. Not sure if it was for pleasure or pursuit, but either way I think they caught the wave of the day.
Now time to put on a sweater and make like I care about things other than surfing for a bit. Hope you all get your fill of food and waves this weekend!
howl can be?