AM cams were jammed with heads yesterday. Counted 50+ heads in Brohampton bobbing in marginal conditions and shape and the Kook cam looked straight mobbed yo. Opted for the arvo and despite a report from Spent indicating deteriorating conditions, proceeded onward.
On arrival did not look to inviting sans lack of crowd. Suited and booted and made the long paddle. Outside was a little windy wild and weird and for some reason opted for my low ender 6' utility which was feeling like a little to less foam, so came in a bit and surfed the broken wave with a few other heads who eventually paddled in. At one point I think I may have been the only one out? Manged some pretty fun runners which were pretty slashable and just about right for my board choice. Eventually a 3 pack joined with one dude going super deep and just straight lighting shite up at mach speeds.
Paddled over to try the other wave that was apparently pretty good in the AM as I heard from Spent and some dude at the shower. Conditions were kinda glassy water was moving and shifty, but some were heaving off the peak with nice long shoulders. Couple local kids had it dialed, me not so much. Paddled into one and air dropped which I stuck only to look up at a solid overhead pitching lip I was not going to get around. Pulled out straight, pin dropped off my board, only to mutilated and sent to Davy Jones's locker pinned to the bottom while feeling my leash stretch out to the point I thought it was going to snap (thanks Crow Haley!) and this is a compish mm leash too. Never really got the one I wanted at wave C, but eventually got one good enough to call it quits.
Got a weird little head ache shortly after. Took some water into the sinus's for sure and wonder what the quality was? Otherwise not a great session by any means, but keeping the weekly streak alive since mid to later Sept
Routine is a vampire. Manu Chao-