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JAN MONSTER SWELL MONTH

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Re: JAN MONSTER SWELL MONTH

Postby Tex » Thu Jan 17, 2019 10:56 pm

good on you bro...sounds like a little slice of heaven.
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Re: JAN MONSTER SWELL MONTH

Postby BOX » Tue Jan 22, 2019 11:32 am

Finally got in the water yesterday. Hadn’t been since before Thanksgiving. I was really starting to get itchy so I’m glad things aligned. Hit up OR around 3pm or so. Maybe about 5 other heads in the water when I got there. A little out of shape but didn’t do too badly for not having been out for a while. Mostly mushy closeouts but I was able to find a few decent ones here and there. I did some good things and caught some good rides. Nothing spectacular but it felt pretty darn good to get back on the board again. Wave quality picked back up a tick as it got later. Everyone else had gone in by that point, but I stayed out until the sun went down. Didn’t want to leave when it was getting good but it was getting dark and I had stuff to do so it was time to go. There’s no bad days in the water but that was a good one. Stoke definitely reignited. Hope it’s not that long again until the next session. I’m ready to charge.
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Re: JAN MONSTER SWELL MONTH

Postby Howly Wolf » Tue Jan 22, 2019 7:00 pm

Good, long session yesterday morning at a spot that fares well on bigger tides. Five bald eagles (mostly juveniles) hovering above and less people in the water. Extra lump and low stakes waves made for a user friendly combo of challenge and wave count. Got a nice little hood tan too-- almost felt like spring out there, but thankfully winter seems to have a little bit more juice left in it 8)
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Re: JAN MONSTER SWELL MONTH

Postby Major Lazer » Wed Jan 23, 2019 9:14 pm

Took advantage of new holiday schedule and rode the endless white wave this past 3 day weekend. 1st seshies of the winter. Not a ton of fresh but some Sun and good groomers and sunshine Mon. Laid down high speed turns emulating Curren esq bottom turns and Buttons laybacks on the usual wind lips and gully walls. Highlight was a night sessh with my oldest daughter and catching the super Blood Wolf Moon rise in the Cascades and eventually the eclipse. Didn't look like I missed.much surf and nice to spend some quality time in the Mtns. We really are lucky here to have options. Short work week and already starting to look foward to this weekend.
Routine is a vampire. Manu Chao-
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Re: JAN MONSTER SWELL MONTH

Postby Major Lazer » Mon Jan 28, 2019 5:53 pm

Another epic weekend of on LP swell and butter conditions. 3 sessions 2 days and literally surfed myself into sickness. Been in bed all day with gnarly sinus infection wishing I could have called in sick for other reasons today. Oh well it was worth it.
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Re: JAN MONSTER SWELL MONTH

Postby Tex » Mon Jan 28, 2019 6:08 pm

WELL DONE bro....stoked for ya!
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Re: JAN MONSTER SWELL MONTH

Postby Howly Wolf » Mon Jan 28, 2019 7:06 pm

Surfed yesterday, but was coming off a stressful Saturday and sleep deprived, so didn't perform as well as I would've liked. In the spirit of progression, however, I did take two plus-size closeouts to the head-- quite possibly the largest I've endured yet. Was a bit outside the lineup when they rolled in and had no choice but to paddle into the first in hopes of getting over, but no dice. After surfacing, the next wave (the larger of the two) was approaching and my best option was to paddle into that one as well. Again, no dice. Silver lining is that I stared it down and did what I had to do without hesitation. Am now very motivated to hit the pool more often too.

Was in better spirits today and a little less sleep deprived. Surfed solo as the sun rose and got to redeem myself a little bit. Still kind of off, but got to enjoy some pristine and rev the stoke before the cavalry arrived. I'll take it!
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Re: JAN MONSTER SWELL MONTH

Postby Howly Wolf » Mon Jan 28, 2019 7:17 pm

Hope you feel better soon, ML. Stoked for you getting the new job btw-- you seem much more in tune with yourself after cutting ties with the previous employer, even if the scheduling aspect is a bit less flexible. Of course, I'm basing this off limited posts on a defunct novelty surf forum, but that's my read. Regardless, here's to less sick days and more siiiiick days moving forward!
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Re: JAN MONSTER SWELL MONTH

Postby Major Lazer » Tue Jan 29, 2019 10:58 am

Thanks Tex. And thanks Howley. Yeah cut out a fair amount of stress making job change and has been worth sacrifices I've had to make. Just need more weekends like last, but they only happen every so often and why I know I had to power through onsettig cold symptoms and surf....... Have you been riding new step?
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Re: JAN MONSTER SWELL MONTH

Postby Howly Wolf » Tue Jan 29, 2019 5:41 pm

Major Lazer wrote: Have you been riding new step?


Certainly have and I'm beyond stoked on it. The glass work came through big time when I got drilled by that cleanup set the other day.
Last edited by Howly Wolf on Wed Feb 06, 2019 6:08 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: JAN MONSTER SWELL MONTH

Postby Howly Wolf » Thu Jan 31, 2019 5:03 pm

Despite all my gushing in the previous post, I opted for the 2+1 today. Paddled out soon after high tide, expecting some jelly rolls, but the waves were steeper than they looked from shore. The "cheater egg" sufficed, although a little more rocker and a lot more speed would've been optimal. Regardless, I felt more in tune today than my last couple sessions and scored some solid OH lefts to cap off the month. Pretty quiet early on-- more scoters on the water than people-- but that didn't last too long. So it goes... just glad to get in on the fading HP before things get a bit more scattered out there.
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Re: JAN MONSTER SWELL MONTH

Postby Spent » Sat Feb 02, 2019 10:56 am

2018 ended well with a few day run down to the OR/ CA border. Scored one of my fav Oregon spots on the last day of the year at dawn. Jan went pretty well. Probably got half a dozen sessions in. Mostly surfed my 6'10" step up as I was feeling lazy and just wanted to get into some solid ones. But ended the month on my 5'8" at a zippy little right in the sun. On call for the first week of Feb so no surfing for a bit.. unless I sneak one in tomorrow.
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Re: JAN MONSTER SWELL MONTH

Postby Tex » Sun Feb 03, 2019 9:44 pm

good to hear Spent...glad you got some solid sessions....thanks for kicking down some reports.
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