oregonsurf.com

Went under the knife unexpectedly last week for an appendicitis

Best of luck in your recovery, ML. I had appendicitis twenty years ago and I can still remember the pain like it was yesterday. I'll spare you all the details but yeah, it sucked. I had a friend describe it once as it being like having a beaver in your abdomen trying to gnaw its way out. Sounded pretty accurate to me. Hope you're able to get back out there soon.

Also, now you can say one of my favorite "dad" jokes: "A lot of people think I'm a complete idiot, but they don't know I've had my appendix removed..."

Haha pretty much...... I have a high tolerance for pain and wrestled with it for 3 hours untill I drove myself to the ER at 3am. Once I got a bed not even a good dose of morphine mainlined via IV could fully kill it. But now that it's gone so much better! When they reviewed the CT scan and came back with the prognosis didn't question it one bit and was like give me another dose of morphine and lets get this party started! Luckily they were able to do it laproscopically so didn't get totally opened up. Keep hearing stories from co-workers and friends from thier 20s or younger. Im no spring chicken and guess it's pretty rare at my age so pretty rando.

Doooood....appendicitis is no joke. Really sorry to hear about that ML. My kid had his removed a couple years back. Hope you recover quick man.

Zzz

did they yank it out of your navel? Thats how they got it out of my boy.

Zzz

Ran into Box and saw the mean green soft top in person

Ha! I was pretty wiped when I ran into you, Howly. But 3-4 hours in the water is a pretty regular thing for me. I may lack skill, but I do have stoke…

I got out on Saturday to a summertime classic that Howly finds works quite well in the spring. Overall a good day in the water. I started out well and did some good things in the beginning but didn’t finish as strongly as I would have liked.

I’m currently trying to sort out a timing/positioning issue. Instead of getting out on the green shoulder before the wave breaks, more often than not I’m coming over with the whitewash. I land some, but I pearl a lot. Waves pass under me fairly often as well. Can’t seem to hit the sweet spot with any consistency. I’ve tried angling my take-off, watching over my shoulder, moving farther back on my board, moving farther forward on my board, paddling more, paddling less, waiting until I “feel the back end of my board being lifted up”, making sacrifices with chicken blood, and everything else suggested online, but still struggling. Caught a few good ones early thinking I was on the right track but ended on a weak note unable to get it done. Guess I got my work cut out for me for next session(s).

Still, the weather was beautiful, I surfed, and I got to meet Mr. H. Wolf in person on my way back up the stairs. Not a bad day in the water indeed.

Dang! Lucky duckies pumping swell, offshore winds, and air temps over 60 for the 1st time in 5 months. This is RARE and will not last. Coldest late winter I can ever remember.

Zzz

Good waves today, albeit a bit windy. Compensated for by temperatures in the 70’s and 7@16.

Took the boys up to WA for part of their spring break. It was a big deal on a lot of levels. I actually got 4 surf sessions in for the month of March....epic increase from the past 6 months.

My oldest son pulled some fakie on his board while cruising on a long board wave.

My youngest son and I actually shared a wave, he went right, I went left, that was a first.

Both boys made it outside on a four-five foot day out at the the Makah reservation. This was the first time they were both able to break through the shorepound. They were tripping to be so far out. My younger son actually picked off a wave from outside and made the drop.

I got some fun point break waves to share with my oldest homie who has a cabin up there.

A great way to end the glides of March.

Sounds like a rad trip Tex. Haven't been up that way in years.

After 2 skunkings in the last week or so put together 2 sessions this past weekend. Fairly solid thumping beachies Sat. Pretty rusty and slow after being out. Put together some waves but didn't have that edge needed to bag some of the better ones. 6'3" semi step felt good. Yesterday same spot but smaller. Swell was spring lumpy and had a bit of wonk to it but there were some serviceable waves to be had. Hopefully back in some type of rythum.

Zzz

Found some real nice looking waves in Humboldt/ Del Norte before March was out. I intentionally didn't take a surfboard bc I didn't want to be frothing on a family trip But there were lots of options and only 3 people max at some spots. Lots of spots with no one out and some tantalizing yet spooky waves.