Muy bien SG. Reminds me I need to get a couple of those nose guard thingys. The last 2 boards I've bought have extremely pointy tips.
Made it back over Fri after work, but passed on the small bumpy conditions. Was pretty beat from surf and work as well. Did spy one pocket of glasseyness and a potential punchy peak on the way down, but beach takes a little bit of work get to despite being visible from an overlook.
Felt like summer was breathing it's last breaths on Sat. Sunny warm and crazy warm water. No way I could of worn a hood despite doctors orders or boots and was warm in 4 mill having to flush it periodically. Surfed a couple fun ones with an old OSPer, 48degrees. Morning glass, fast, and punchy as the tide was sucking to low with some corners here and there, but not a super productive session for myself.
Had lunch and looked around town for another bar in slaps sans t shirt. Sun felt so good on my back. Wind was just starting to puff lightly and new swell was filling in a bit. Jumped out at a dependable bar for what I thought might be a quick one. At 1st there were some fun lefts with roll ins and carveable walls into an inside section that would with either go or detonate. Then started getting some very fun rights that allowed for 2 or 3 good turns. Wind never got worse and ended up surfing for 2 more hours the last hans solo. Was totally noodled afterwards and on the drive back home and even caught some of the air show passing through. Fun day.
Now we'll see if Fall brings some sun, east winds, and fun swell. I sure hope so after this wet yet wave rich Sept.