Major Lazer wrote:Still waiting to hear Smith G's birthday Bajah report?
Not bad considering how little I surf now. I was gifted a mexican hospital pass on my birthday when
the nose of my 6'1" shortboard gave me a kiss on the cheek instead of putting a hole into my face
after a blown late drop. 3 two hour sessions in a day and a half left me wasted with jelly arms. That's
the same amount I've surfer in Oregon all year.
Decided on a rest day which turned out the be the biggest and windiest conditions of my trip. Self medicated with vitamin I, Tecates, and some primo tequila.
Got back in the saddle the next morning and surfed a spot where we were the only gringos in the line up for
a good hour or so. Best vibes ever, no socal angst and smiles and hoots for everyone. Later on the same day
we paddled out to the point amid the smell of death. There was beached gray whale carcass blown up like a balloon,
roasting in the mexican sun. Must've been 25 feet long or so. From the line up I could see the waves hitting it as the fins
and tail would sway with the impact. Waves were terrible as the wind had come up and so after an hour we decided to
bail and make the long paddle back to campo. Not the note I'd like to end the trip on but hey, getting waves down
south is always a treat for me.