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October Surf Fest

Open to mostly benign surf topics. Like: "Gosh! I had fun on my softtop the other day". Registration is required.

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Re: October Surf Fest

Postby BOX » Fri Oct 18, 2019 10:02 am

TL;DR: From a kook’s perspective known beginner spots are probably ok to spot name on here. Lesser-known, advanced, or “secret” spots probably not.

nor have I ever seen so many leashed cats

My cat surfs without a leash. He’s no kook.

And speaking of kooks, if you spot name, I’m going to show up at your breaks. You know, the much-derided middle-aged learner that has some experience in the water and thinks he can surf but really can’t at all. The kind of guy who’ll shoulder-hop and drop in on you on accident, popping up to say “aw, shucks, I didn’t see you there buddy” as you get cut off from your perfect clean section/barrel what have you. The kind of guy who will paddle out right in front of your line because he couldn’t get around you in time to take one on the head in the whitewash. Is that what you really want??? :P

Seriously, though, as the resident central coast kook around here I often don’t know where you guys are talking about a lot of the time. I know the main spots up north that even the non-surfers know about like SS, IB, the cove, etc., but if it isn’t a known break, I’ll be honest, chances are I probably don’t know about it. I’ve got three well-known spots here on the central coast between 20-40 minutes from me. I’ve been coy about naming them to keep with the spirit of the page, but seriously, at least two of the spots are well-known beginner breaks. They hold annual surf contests every year. There’s no secret about them. In fact, it would probably be better to name those spots loudly so all of the beginners go there and stay away from the more difficult breaks. I tend to go there, because I’m expected to be there. If you get burned by a kook at AB or OR, what did you expect? Those spots are where the kooks go to play. Now if we’re talking about an infamous point up north (which for the record, I’ve never been), then yeah, I can see why people want to gate keep.

I keep a lookout for secret/hidden/unknown breaks all of the time. I’ve got my eyes on a couple of spots to the south of me. They’re not visited often and there’s nothing on the internet about them, but I see people in the water out there from time to time. One of those spots I think is becoming more popular, though. I saw more people there this summer (maybe about 3-4 times) than I have seen total in the last 5 years. I guess the word is out. I’ve got another one that I’ve only seen people out on maybe twice. I’m not even sure where the access is, but every time I drive by now I check it out and I’ve seen some nice waves for sure. Those kind of spots I don’t think I’m going to share out publicly.

Because when I see a spot that I think is good, I go right to the internet to see if anyone else has surfed there. I was hiking around the south coast last weekend and found a beautiful wave that had refracted around a point into a sheltered cove. No one was around. When I got back I immediately went to check to see if it was a known spot. While I wouldn’t say it is well-known I am definitely not the first person who has noticed it. Same thing goes for a kayaking excursion I recently went on where the river let out into the ocean. The waves were rolling in perfectly and at the time there was absolutely no one around but fishing boats farther out. I did catch a wave in my kayak before completely dumping it on a second one – proving that I’m no better at kayaking than I am at surfing. Super fun, but I didn’t find a thing on the internet about that spot. As I was paddling back upriver, though, I saw a guy and his three kids hiking down a path with what looked like a SUP and a longboard so maybe it is known. It is to me now, anyway.

The point of this dissertation is that if you spot name a well-known beginner spot that has cams on it and is prominently featured on Surfline, MSW, the OSP itself, etc., then it’s probably no big deal. However, if you spot name a place you want to keep the kooks away from, you probably should keep it to yourself. Because if I’m out there trying to do all of this detective work, then I assure you that others are as well. Plus, it’s kind of fun to learn of a new spot even if I know I’ll probably not able to surf it any time soon. I consider it part of the whole learning process. Maybe someday I'll get to be the gatekeeper :D
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Re: October Surf Fest

Postby Spent » Fri Oct 18, 2019 2:29 pm

Major Lazer wrote:That said, Haiku cam was firing today with 6 heads on it.


ha ha been watching that also. got that spot last time i went up with slimvest. three of us on it for a couple of hours and then when it was done a crew of 6 showed up... very fun spot. was only about shoulder high when we surfed it but saw the potential.
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Re: October Surf Fest

Postby Major Lazer » Fri Oct 18, 2019 3:18 pm

Easy one. To easy, yet well positioned. Have gotten it several times, nice HH tubes with small crew, but last time maybe 4 years ago now 15 heads out and a dozen on the beach. Fug that.... drove up the road and surfed rocky left off of boil. Not as good or perfect, but still fun and just 2 of us. Need luck or better yet boat or kayak to score anything uncrowded these days.
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Re: October Surf Fest

Postby Tex » Fri Oct 18, 2019 8:47 pm

Got in at the piling today....some mostly waist high well groomed peelers. Should have used a long board but only had my 6'5 Oakfoils. 8 guys just watched....I was the only one out. Super shallow and of course super rocky...but they are round soft rocks for sure.

Before my meeting at Clallam PUD there were 8 guys at a spot near joyce. Way too many dudes for that spot. When I got back the east wind was hitting it too hard. Love it up here though...I could just unplug and stare out at VI for the rest of my days. Tons of rainbows up here too.
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Re: October Surf Fest

Postby Tex » Mon Oct 21, 2019 4:28 pm

First light on the Layer....lines moving across the whole beach. 2 guys out on the east end. I ended up snagging a ten foot log and paddled out to the west end. I was posted up fairly far out and with additional paddle power was able to snag some really fun 4 footers with not a drop of water out of place. With that board, there was nothing to do but go straight....as fast as I could. I actually ended up pumping the long board up and down the faces.....one after the other. I was the only guy on that end of the point, just following the white water line right back to the exact same spot. It lasted about 2 hours. I got my fill. I love the silence that accompanies the trim line of an unbroken wave, it is surreal and it surrounds you. I am grateful for that session.
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Re: October Surf Fest

Postby Howly Wolf » Mon Oct 21, 2019 6:08 pm

Zzz
Last edited by Howly Wolf on Fri Oct 14, 2022 7:39 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: October Surf Fest

Postby Tex » Mon Oct 21, 2019 9:13 pm

THANKS BRO....nice to be able to contribute to the session stories!
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Re: October Surf Fest

Postby Major Lazer » Fri Oct 25, 2019 9:18 am

Decently fun one at jah sands the other evening. Haven't had a to many sessions down there recently, but 1st time since June it wasn't like 80% close outs. Rain and storm may have moved things around? Swell died quick thou, like during session, been a weird Oct like that. Was hoping for offshore leftovers at an open beachie yest am that has a decent and fairly dependable bar in the 3' to 4' range, but was just drops to gutless walls. Lasted about 45 minutes and went to work. Come n Oct its not to late.
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Re: October Surf Fest

Postby smithgrind » Sat Oct 26, 2019 2:36 pm

Paddled out of the parking lot to some temporarily clean small kine waves during high tide. First time
on a LB since I don’t know when...three, four years? Anyways...it was fun and giggles until the wind turned
on shore and sideways with pelting rain. Made it hard to see the impending sets which had grown in size
and increased in texture. Nothing like hopping speed bumps on drops with all that board in the way. Mellow
scene in line up with seven heads to count until this dude rolls out on a soft top and instantly blows up on
dishpan. I assumed they were tight broing from way back when given the yelling, name calling and water splashing
but then the joke went on too long. I guess you could say it was a fine example of local surf history. Added some
needed zing to the sesh as the conditions deteriorated with the on coming front. All in all a fun time. Good to get wet
and paddle around 70 CL of foam for a change.
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Re: October Surf Fest

Postby Howly Wolf » Sun Oct 27, 2019 6:34 pm

Zzz
Last edited by Howly Wolf on Fri Oct 14, 2022 7:39 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: October Surf Fest

Postby Major Lazer » Mon Oct 28, 2019 10:06 am

Dang Howly sounds epic. Painful day to be stuck in the val, but when fatherhood calls, father hood calls.
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Re: October Surf Fest

Postby Howly Wolf » Mon Oct 28, 2019 3:42 pm

Zzz
Last edited by Howly Wolf on Fri Oct 14, 2022 7:40 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: October Surf Fest

Postby Howly Wolf » Tue Oct 29, 2019 2:23 pm

Zzz
Last edited by Howly Wolf on Fri Oct 14, 2022 7:40 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: October Surf Fest

Postby smithgrind » Tue Oct 29, 2019 3:22 pm

Howly Wolf wrote:Nothing you haven't seen before, mid life man. Waves are forever; only one chance to raise the kids.

Good waves are temporary and fickle. Kids are around forever.
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Re: October Surf Fest

Postby Major Lazer » Thu Oct 31, 2019 11:43 am

True... true no regrets was just valley froohoothing. Just hoping my body holds together once they fly the nest and I find more time on my hands.

Anyways scheduled some time off to celebrate another trip around the sun and seek out some watery gifts. Made it over for the tail end of the LP swell. Opted for a spot with a feature and geography that would keep some of the gusty easts at bay, which seemed to be knocking the swell down. It was easy like golf, which I don’t play, but imagine showing up with one other player on the greens. Cart rides out the peak, wait for tee off, and whaaaack playful CH zippers that allowed for some TC esque rail work and combo action. Lake like lulls made for a serene calm and almost froze out during some of the 10 to 15 minute ones and had to power through a brutal leg cramp. It was worth it thou, as the tide sucked out started pitching and bowling more than at HT and had the cathedral to my lonesome. Had some of the best feeling turns I’ve had in a while and honestly have a magic board under my feet right now.

Woke as 47 to a beaut of a costal morning. New little swell was packing some punch groomed by a light east wind. Suited, booted and gloved (for the first time since early spring) at a beachie I’ve been surfing. Waves were tricky with a little rat pack on the peak I didn’t see while checking it, but there were some gems. Got hucked on my 1st one and out run by the section on next few. Put together a couple tweeners, did the ole walk around, and was in the right spot when a solid one peaked up with no one deeper. Bit of an air drop, wobbly landing, but caught rail and set my line on a slightly overhead screamer. Saw the lip briefly throw over my shoulder and pumped when I shoulda stalled. Flew down the line and pointed it for the rest of the wave and was well down the beach by the time it was over. Got another one that was similar, but not as good. Eventually peak shut and so did my arms. Not a big wave count, but another year in the water and a classic Oct day at the coast. I am sure there were waves up and down the coast all day long.
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