Change font size   Print view

COVID Sessions

Open to mostly benign surf topics. Like: "Gosh! I had fun on my softtop the other day". Registration is required.

Moderators: wanty, Tex

Re: COVID Sessions

Postby buoyhead » Mon Dec 07, 2020 5:24 pm

Disclaimer: The following will not be of much interest to anyone.

So...Saturday was my birthday. Every surfer wants to surf on their birthday. And having a birthday on December 5, in Oregon always has given me pretty good odds. But this Fall has been for the most part not so good, lots of big and junky days. But the morning of the 5th. I awoke to sunny sky’s, Southeast winds and 6ft.@12secs. Got there around 9:00. Parking lot already full with side streets starting to fill up. Bypassed the crowd and walked out to the place I’ve called home since 1977. Daybreak crew starting to exit leaving 6-8. I knew them all. Some were young guys whose fathers I had surfed with 40+ years ago. Waves were perfect, really as good as it gets at that size. Friends being friends, I was gifted a number of “Birthday Waves”.
Not many people on this site. I don’t post much. Can’t say I know any of you. But we’ve probably ran into each other (figuratively speaking, of course). You might know me if you saw me. Different kind of board. Different fashion of wave riding (Thanks George Greenough). I started surfing in 1964 and have ridden every kind of board imaginable. But I like what I ride now because it allows me to surf the way I like to surf even at my advanced age.
I’m not the least bit resentful of the younger crew. Nor do I long for the “old days”. I feel blessed to have lived and surfed in the era that I did (and do). So many memories. Saturday was another, l can’t remember a better day.
Surfing, “The innermost limits of pure fun” Greenough called it. And it’s still happening at 68 years of age. Is that cool or what?
The difference between genius and stupidity is that genius has limits.
User avatar
buoyhead
Plover Murderer
 
Posts: 92
Joined: Sat Jan 29, 2011 8:11 am
Location: Desdemona St.

Re: COVID Sessions

Postby smithgrind » Mon Dec 07, 2020 8:41 pm

Kinda cool.
User avatar
smithgrind
somebody call my lawyer
 
Posts: 3563
Joined: Sun May 09, 2004 9:20 pm
Location: In Your Dreams.

Re: COVID Sessions

Postby Major Lazer » Tue Dec 08, 2020 9:52 am

Sounds like you're a lucky guy living the dream Buoy and can only imagine how much tube time you have logged over all those years. Saturday was a def a beaut of a day and looked damn fun out there.
When the going gets weird, the weird turn pro. Hunter S. Thompson
User avatar
Major Lazer
learn to surf in 10 easy steps, I did
 
Posts: 914
Joined: Fri Jan 07, 2011 2:38 am
Location: DeepWestSide

Re: COVID Sessions

Postby Howly Wolf » Tue Dec 15, 2020 2:49 pm

buoyhead wrote:Disclaimer: The following will not be of much interest to anyone.


Invoking core essences of a surfing life in a single paragraph may not appeal to the masses, but it's appreciated here. Many happy returns, buoyhead.

Brief oasis from 20' swell this past weekend. Frosty east wind & 4-5' swell was lighting up a number of spots. Hit up a user friendly spot that was holding decent size in spite of the king tide, then off to elsewhere to contend with the longshore in hopes of nabbing some hollow rights. Mixed results, but 4 hours of water time is always a good day. Sketchy commute though-- saw a few wrecks both there and back and almost slid off the road a few times myself. Good reminder to ease up on the pedal with winter on the way.
howl can be?
User avatar
Howly Wolf
have I shown you the swing room?
 
Posts: 422
Joined: Fri Jan 07, 2011 1:19 am

Re: COVID Sessions

Postby Major Lazer » Tue Dec 15, 2020 8:56 pm

East winds and swell <5' were fun. And while a little tricky and a bit of work at a capricious sandbank I've come to recognize over the years, almost every good set wave was throwing a HH makeable frontside barrel. Only made a few turns.... Drained quick and the few others that were out caught on to my vibe and drifted down, of which I watched from an alt vantage point post sarf sipping a rare Barley Bs canned brew I scored. To bad we didn't get consecutive days of those variables with less tidal variation. Fingers X'ed we do. Pretty much days I live for. 8)

Note: studded tires are nice to have for winter travel.
When the going gets weird, the weird turn pro. Hunter S. Thompson
User avatar
Major Lazer
learn to surf in 10 easy steps, I did
 
Posts: 914
Joined: Fri Jan 07, 2011 2:38 am
Location: DeepWestSide

Re: COVID Sessions

Postby Tex » Wed Dec 16, 2020 11:08 am

Buoyhead, thanks for sharing the report and happy birthday brother. Puts it all in perspective as I turned 49 on 11/29. Been surfing since 1990 and I too am grateful for the time period that I have been able to surf. I am really stoked to hear that you scored such a beautiful day. There are times when I am simply overwhelmed by the sheer beauty of space I inhabit when surfing. The air temp, the sky colors, the surrounding landscape, the water colors, not sure how heaven could be much better.

I have watched Innermost Limits of Fun probably over 100 times. That film never gets old.

Hope to cross your path one day soon.

Tex
User avatar
Tex
leashless is no way to go through life
 
Posts: 1417
Joined: Mon Jun 11, 2007 2:04 pm
Location: 94 El Nino~ All Time Best

Re: COVID Sessions

Postby buoyhead » Thu Dec 17, 2020 4:31 pm

And a happy birthday to you, Tex.
Oh to be 49 again!
The difference between genius and stupidity is that genius has limits.
User avatar
buoyhead
Plover Murderer
 
Posts: 92
Joined: Sat Jan 29, 2011 8:11 am
Location: Desdemona St.

Re: COVID Sessions

Postby Major Lazer » Thu Dec 17, 2020 5:54 pm

HBD Tex! 49! Sliding in to that 50th now.
When the going gets weird, the weird turn pro. Hunter S. Thompson
User avatar
Major Lazer
learn to surf in 10 easy steps, I did
 
Posts: 914
Joined: Fri Jan 07, 2011 2:38 am
Location: DeepWestSide

Re: COVID Sessions

Postby Tex » Fri Dec 18, 2020 8:34 am

Thanks Gents...still processing the fact I am knocking on the 50 year door, the biggest upside is the inkling of wisdom I have received just from walking the earth this number of years. Inspired by the older surfers who are still living the stoke!
User avatar
Tex
leashless is no way to go through life
 
Posts: 1417
Joined: Mon Jun 11, 2007 2:04 pm
Location: 94 El Nino~ All Time Best

Re: COVID Sessions

Postby Major Lazer » Mon Dec 28, 2020 12:17 pm

Xmas came early. Sun was out, warm air temp, lost the gloves, the right was as good as the left, and managed to snag some long lined up set waves from the frothy pack 8)
When the going gets weird, the weird turn pro. Hunter S. Thompson
User avatar
Major Lazer
learn to surf in 10 easy steps, I did
 
Posts: 914
Joined: Fri Jan 07, 2011 2:38 am
Location: DeepWestSide

Re: COVID Sessions

Postby Major Lazer » Wed Dec 30, 2020 12:17 pm

Capped the 2020 surf year with a dub session day. Got out early with just 2 others. Light offshore and kinda small. Big HT was starting to swamp, but sat on the corner, which seems to be the most rippable. Drops to high line pumps to hand drag bottom turn to set up for a wrap or down face carve to occ tail slideage on da quiva kilin Rippa. New Black Friyay HS1 thrust set feeling spicey. Haven't had a new set of fins I have clicked with in a while and these are good! 4' morning brought out the masses and after almost getting run over, called it and worked in the library lot. Was flooded for my board anyways.

Came back for mid afternoon. LP pinging on the outer and 1st glance way less crowd than mid am, but didn't look like it did xmas eve LP magic. Suited and booted with out to much thought other than thinking it was going to be my last of 2020. Dinked around on the corner for a few. Pretty weird, but sucking on suck out. A few drops to close out vert wall grindage and a couple rando slashable lefts. Then noticed the up da beach peak was pulsing OH on the 22 forerunners and a couple SBers getting some goods. Paddled up and lucked into an OH screamer. 5'11" felt a little squirrely and almost slid out on the drop, but recovered and high lined through a couple sections almost back to the corner for a loooong one. Not many turn sections on this peak typically, so just kinda cruised on them. Sacrificed a section for a drawn out off the top carve on my last one, straightened out, and and went in.

Weird surf year. Back went out for about 5 weeks in Jan then the stupid stay at home dry docked me for about 5 weeks and no Mainland Mex trip in May. Tried to make up for it and the consistency of the last 2 months has certainly helped get my numbers up. Will be interesting to see the grand total once I get around to adding up the days on my surf calendar. Good bye 2020 and HNYers yall.
When the going gets weird, the weird turn pro. Hunter S. Thompson
User avatar
Major Lazer
learn to surf in 10 easy steps, I did
 
Posts: 914
Joined: Fri Jan 07, 2011 2:38 am
Location: DeepWestSide

Re: COVID Sessions

Postby Howly Wolf » Wed Dec 30, 2020 12:20 pm

Pre-Xmas looked damn good, Major, but anticipating that frothing pack, settled for less a little down the road. Surfed some beefed up wobblers by myself for most of the morning until the stragglers showed up. Toward the end of my session, I was nearly run over by a newish surfer on a Christenson flat tracker. Curious as to why a person who seemed unable to pop up would spend 1000$ + on a board, I looked online and was impressed to find some god-tier subliminal VAL marketing. Dig.

A2A7ED86-710E-4E87-882F-6AB66B5B917C.jpeg
A2A7ED86-710E-4E87-882F-6AB66B5B917C.jpeg (170.83 KiB) Viewed 1975 times


Just for the record, it took me way too long to notice the joke he was going for.

In more recent news, it was very cold yesterday. My fingers still have that lingering sting one day later. But wind was flowing in the right direction, holding up leftovers of previous mondo swell and forerunners to current mondo swell. 5-6’ grey glass racers. Type of day I look forward to all year long; the colder, the better.
howl can be?
User avatar
Howly Wolf
have I shown you the swing room?
 
Posts: 422
Joined: Fri Jan 07, 2011 1:19 am

Re: COVID Sessions

Postby Howly Wolf » Thu Jan 21, 2021 1:42 pm

Unlocked a new level of surf flakiness. Had an opportunity to get my covid vaccine as early as today, but am too busy chasing swell. Got set up in accordance with crud conditions though, so hopefully I’ll survive til then? Don’t judge me.
howl can be?
User avatar
Howly Wolf
have I shown you the swing room?
 
Posts: 422
Joined: Fri Jan 07, 2011 1:19 am

Previous

Return to Forum For People Who Think They Surf

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 2 guests