by Tex » Mon Dec 21, 2020 8:33 pm
Well I shite myself multiple times trying to get outside....made it after about 45 minutes. This was out at SS, probably only 8 guys out.
I was riding a 7'0 pin tail that had a lot of volume so paddling was easy.
The whole horizon seemed to be tilting every time a set would come through, seemed like every 10 minutes I was like, OH shite and scrapping to get over sets.
I finally saw one coming and it felt like I was in the right position to grab a solid line. Started paddling for it, it lifted me up, and then kind of table topped so I popped and then stomped on the front foot and started bombing down the face, chatter on the wave was making that thump thump sound on the board.
As I look back up the face, I see a long boarder about 10ft in front of me and seemed like 8 ft above me....I was like HOLY shite but the wave was big enough for him to stake out his line and I rode my line. Super stoked, rode that bad boy all the way in!