Henri (ON-REE) had the makings to be one of those epic ones early on, a slow moving storm meandering its way west of Bermuda and up the EC, close but not making landfall sending swell from Florida to Nova Scotia. My froth levels were high having settled in at my Grams ole place, where my folks live now beaching and dipping everyday around the island. But that changed and by Friday and anyone in New England was getting emergency txt pings and the region on full watch. People started the usual prepping and what not and its been since Bob in 91 that a classified hurricane has hit New England. Bob absolutely wrecked my families and many others beloved islands and much more.
Started seeing forerunners with some wind swell from a rain storm that had cleared on Fri am. Local point had a bump with a few heads on it, but the full moon high tide was flooding it which was a factor for this entire swell at a spot that prefers the lower end of the tide. Opted for the left on the other side. Just 2 older local gents on shorties out, one I recognized and was greeted with a "good manin" even on my 7'6" softie which does not bode well. Even LB'ers get grief on this rocky stretch. Thought it was a couple light weight groms on SB's milking the small runners and figured I ride a fun board considering I hadn't surfed since mid July. So I did my best Gravy bobbing and weaving through the boily lined up sections on the back hand. Thigh to waist little lefts peeling over the rocks the good ones going to the small sandy channel. And let me tell you how GOOD 75 degree water felt in boardies and a 2 mill top
Spent the afternoon surfing with the gromitas and my niece at the often seaweedy beach break cove I learned to surf as a kid. Gromitas were also hyped on the warm water and lack of prene and weren't to bothered by the thick seaweed on the inside. Wind was onshore, so kinda choppy, but so fun to be out there with my girls. Ended up surfing most of the day and paddled around on a newsed 6'2" Roberts I picked up for my new Rhody board from a guy who was holding it for me.
Highlight was Sat. Caught an epic sunrise to start the day. Point was flooded at dawn, again with the full moon high, but the swell was pulsing pretty good. So packed up the fam for a beach day and a surf with my cousin who's now 20 minutes across 2 bridges and 2 islands away in a rural costal zone. HH on the sets and pulsing pretty good at an A frame creek mouth rock pile in the middle of a pretty steep beach. A little mushy, but pretty long and lined up with good push. Warm air, so ditched 2mill top for a short sleeved rashy. A little crowded, but pretty easy to get waves. Vibe was good and everyone was stoked and happy, zero agroness, which must be the warm water and tropo swell. Ranged from a few older guys on mids to 20 something boys of summer on Gravy softies, some alt guys, and only a few rippers on SB's. Cousin burned me on my 1st wave and we surfed it together which my wife got a kick out of on the beach. Stayed busy on the rights and the new Roberts felt good. Its dubbed as an allrounder and seems to fit the bill. Woulda rode my Rad Ripper in similar conditions. Surfed for about 4 hours with a couple water breaks mixed in. Was a little to much for the gromitas, but they had a blast taking poundings in the shore break boogieing, swimming, and body surfing. Ended an epic day with a cook out, some killer ice cream at a classic creamery, and a beautiful full moon rise over a sparkling sea and perhaps the calm before the storm.
Sunday we got wacked pretty good about 30 miles east of Westerly. NE winds maybe gusting 50 or 60, but it came through quick. A fairly typical Oregon Coast winter storm, but its different here with a lower laying coastline and more pop density esp in the Summer. Checked the closest spot to our house 3 or miles around the island. A kinda secret or used to be, a local protected cove with a left and right point like set up on each side that can go on solid swells with plenty of wind protection ideal on NE winds. Only about 6 or 8 parking spots so cant get to busy. Once again flooded early, tried to go back at low but the cops had the road closed at the beach and couldn't get past them. Ha! It was actually worse earlier, but they kept it closed all day. Reminded me of times of old and teh cops telling us to come in from the beach during similar storms. Lost power for around 24hrs. 5 or 6 boats came off their mornings or anchors and washed ashore in town.
Wind went offshore yesterday. Up at dawn again. Jumped out at the point even though it was barley working. Was supposed to be another pulse of mid period swell, but ended up being leftovers. The Lord of Newport was out, an East Coast surf skate legend I've know for years and a big part of my cousins and my early surfing and skating days. I had tried to get to the shop several times, but it was closed so I was stoked to finally catch up with the infamous Water Brother aka The Package who just hit the big 70 and has a documentary coming out. I also got the 411 on his recent trip to Slater waves. "It's not even real" The WH kinda fluffy ones to the rocks shut off, but allowed for a few turns anyways. Climbed the wall out and drove over to the beachie. Small clean runners. Jumped out, so easy to do when you don't have to put on a wet wetsuit, and had a blast catching nicley lined thigh lefts and rights on the foamy. Musta been a 5 star day on MSW cause it was the busiest so far and was a Tues. Kind of a younger COVID crowd and a lot of heads struggling with not enough board and some stylish LBers gobbling em up. Soaked in the nostalgic feels I had as a kid surfing this beach stoked to the gills on surfing back then.
So yeah wish it would stayed off shore, pulsed some good solid LP swell, and lit up my favorite point. But cant complain we lucked out taking the hit straight on and any tropical swell and not surfing close outs is welcome. Been surfing more than I have all summer if not on average and not missing it much esp inland life and PDX....... Glad to hear the flat spell is over out there. Living my best life here in the Ocean State and hopefully another swell before I return. Major-
Routine is a vampire. Manu Chao-