Howly Wolf wrote:Chanel Derrière wrote: I'd like to complain but I'm not going to.
We can always count on the mysterious Chanel Derrière to cast light upon dark waters. Thank you for your relentless positivity! Do you attribute such optimism to your channel bottom twin fin midlength? And if so, does it go left?
Yes. Actually caught my biggest wave since last winter on it, going left on Saturday. Just south of two minor rescue operations. Paddled out at post-contest O Clock, high tide, just as the swell was really filling in. One dude got sucked out in the rip with no wetsuit and panicked. Ex-Osper Slim, guided him back in. Then another dude with a camera got sucked out and also panicked. One of the crew gave cameraman his board to get back in while he swam the camera equipment in. I should note rescue dude was about 6 Tecates deep at this point.
I blissfully missed all this as I sat on a wide peak, easing into a few on the 7'6" 6 channelled bottom- Twin fin midlenth.
Also surfed it a few times in way smaller conditions leading up to the swell and it was pretty lackluster. Def more of a board for shoulder high plus with open faces... fun for going straight very fast in little zippers though...
Pink Floyd and Single Fin Logs.