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Vax Sessions

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Re: Vax Sessions

Postby Howly Wolf » Mon Aug 09, 2021 10:35 am

Got some sessions in late last week. Started off clean, small, and inconsistent but swell was building and by the end of the day felt almost like surfing. Marine layer provided a ghost ship vibe; squirrely bit of cross swell, lumpy and dumpy, but viable peaks in the mix. A good time overall, but could have done without the bro squad that paddled out and insisted on hooting for every incoming wave approaching 4'.
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Re: Vax Sessions

Postby Major Lazer » Tue Aug 10, 2021 2:45 pm

Ugg the boys of summer...... when will it end.

Apparently not enough true "Vax Sessions" out there. Will "Shutdown Brown" strike again? Prob not staying home this time. Unless this flat spell continues.
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Re: Vax Sessions

Postby BOX » Tue Aug 10, 2021 4:08 pm

looks thumpy today at pc


Got out last Thursday to a beach south of Newport for a dawn patrol session. It was indeed thumpy.

Marine layer provided a ghost ship vibe; squirrely bit of cross swell


No joke. That cross swell was pulling hard. Fog was super thick and I could barely see what was going on around me much less set a landmark for positioning. Started paddling out at the observation deck and by the time I got back in sight of the beach I was down by the townhouses.

Got out last night for a sunset session near the lighthouse. Little bit of wind and chop, but no fog to deal with at least. Nothing glorious, but had fun. There's no bad days in the water.
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Re: Vax Sessions

Postby Howly Wolf » Wed Aug 11, 2021 3:37 pm

Major Lazer wrote:Apparently not enough true "Vax Sessions" out there. Will "Shutdown Brown" strike again?


Cool-- all that's been missing from my summer was smarmy "stay home, beach later" lectures. Happy to stay home from my day to day obligations, but no surf? That ain't happening.
Last edited by Howly Wolf on Thu Aug 12, 2021 8:03 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Vax Sessions

Postby Chanel Derrière » Wed Aug 11, 2021 7:34 pm

Had to go to the coast to see a man about a dog. Post-business had to go for a mandatory looky lou eh?

Traffic between Winters and and Summers was insane, even at 11am/

Anyway, I know its Weds but I pulled up to Sunday Evening, wrong tide and all or so I thought. No parking. But I found a little sneaky spot and made my way out to relatively quiet waters. Anyway, insides in a zone less looked upon were pretty damn fun on my 5'10" baked bean. Dare I say 'shredable?" Winds were swinging offshore and creating some nice little shallow end transitions with three of us spread out over a few bowly peaks.

2.5 hours deep and I called it.

Left town with one board, returned with three. Not complaining today. Back to Craigslist.
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Re: Vax Sessions

Postby Major Lazer » Thu Aug 12, 2021 5:38 pm

Well I hope one of you scored today or at least got some of this swell, 1st substantial one in 5 or 6 weeks? Stuck in the smoky hot city, remodel and job rat fing me. Thought I'd at least get wet and swim some laps after work, but even that is closed. Valley rot + burn ='s blows!!! Off to the right coast for a few weeks where it could easily be 2"s the entire time. At least it'll be cooler.......
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Re: Vax Sessions

Postby Tex » Fri Aug 13, 2021 1:59 pm

I am up in NE Kingdom this week, humid as shite out here. Damn property is dirt cheap. Too bad surf is not happeniing out here.
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Re: Vax Sessions

Postby smithgrind » Mon Aug 23, 2021 4:13 pm

Early negative tide on Saturday so I waited out a few hours after the turn before paddling out on the push.
Acceptable clean lines coming through but more close outs than shoulders, swell improved
within a few hours and by the time I bailed it was filling in and shaping up. I counted three surf schools
in attendance. One in the water, one on the beach and another making their way down the trail.
Line up was pretty crowded too.
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Re: Vax Sessions

Postby Howly Wolf » Wed Aug 25, 2021 9:50 am

Murmurings of angst at the site of Oregon's latest, greatest surf school... talk of "second tier kooks" crowding the spot with a perhaps misguided sense of their own skill set. As a blow in myself, there's not much I can say about that, but seems every schmo posted up in the lot is carrying both a soft top and a lost... Strange days, indeed, but still plenty of waves for me.

Lots of activity the past couple weeks with plenty of LP SW swell and SP NW wind swell. Haven't been surfing as much as I'd like due to laziness and a pesky hip injury. Rallied for birthday waves this past weekend, which I am happy to report was ample on surf, light on wind. Even got a bit of OH bump for a few sessions, which culminated in a front row seat of a sea lion setting a high line on a 6' set wave and shooting for life through the oncoming wall of water (that I had to dodge at the last second). Caught a few of those myself, but have to admit that "advanced age" and aforementioned laziness are not compatible with the marathon sessions I'm accustomed to and certainly has not abetted my own unrealistic expectations of how I think I could/should surf. But ya gotta rev the engine sometime and now's a good as time as any.

Noticed a bit of "twang" in the air-- hints of that transition from summer and autumn. Cool morning breeze, slightly offshore; a clean, clear expanse of blues and greens; the palpable sense of a new semester creeping up on the boys and girls of summer. If you check their instagram, I'd wager you'd find wave porn with captions like "it's coming..." Well, let it. Summer's over if you want it.
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Re: Vax Sessions

Postby Howly Wolf » Wed Aug 25, 2021 10:55 am

Major Lazer wrote: Off to the right coast for a few weeks where it could easily be 2"s the entire time.


Any decent surf off that tropical storm? Direct hit on Westerly, but heard it was kind of a snoozer...
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Re: Vax Sessions

Postby Major Lazer » Wed Aug 25, 2021 4:02 pm

Henri (ON-REE) had the makings to be one of those epic ones early on, a slow moving storm meandering its way west of Bermuda and up the EC, close but not making landfall sending swell from Florida to Nova Scotia. My froth levels were high having settled in at my Grams ole place, where my folks live now beaching and dipping everyday around the island. But that changed and by Friday and anyone in New England was getting emergency txt pings and the region on full watch. People started the usual prepping and what not and its been since Bob in 91 that a classified hurricane has hit New England. Bob absolutely wrecked my families and many others beloved islands and much more.

Started seeing forerunners with some wind swell from a rain storm that had cleared on Fri am. Local point had a bump with a few heads on it, but the full moon high tide was flooding it which was a factor for this entire swell at a spot that prefers the lower end of the tide. Opted for the left on the other side. Just 2 older local gents on shorties out, one I recognized and was greeted with a "good manin" even on my 7'6" softie which does not bode well. Even LB'ers get grief on this rocky stretch. Thought it was a couple light weight groms on SB's milking the small runners and figured I ride a fun board considering I hadn't surfed since mid July. So I did my best Gravy bobbing and weaving through the boily lined up sections on the back hand. Thigh to waist little lefts peeling over the rocks the good ones going to the small sandy channel. And let me tell you how GOOD 75 degree water felt in boardies and a 2 mill top :D 8) :D 8) Spent the afternoon surfing with the gromitas and my niece at the often seaweedy beach break cove I learned to surf as a kid. Gromitas were also hyped on the warm water and lack of prene and weren't to bothered by the thick seaweed on the inside. Wind was onshore, so kinda choppy, but so fun to be out there with my girls. Ended up surfing most of the day and paddled around on a newsed 6'2" Roberts I picked up for my new Rhody board from a guy who was holding it for me.

Highlight was Sat. Caught an epic sunrise to start the day. Point was flooded at dawn, again with the full moon high, but the swell was pulsing pretty good. So packed up the fam for a beach day and a surf with my cousin who's now 20 minutes across 2 bridges and 2 islands away in a rural costal zone. HH on the sets and pulsing pretty good at an A frame creek mouth rock pile in the middle of a pretty steep beach. A little mushy, but pretty long and lined up with good push. Warm air, so ditched 2mill top for a short sleeved rashy. A little crowded, but pretty easy to get waves. Vibe was good and everyone was stoked and happy, zero agroness, which must be the warm water and tropo swell. Ranged from a few older guys on mids to 20 something boys of summer on Gravy softies, some alt guys, and only a few rippers on SB's. Cousin burned me on my 1st wave and we surfed it together which my wife got a kick out of on the beach. Stayed busy on the rights and the new Roberts felt good. Its dubbed as an allrounder and seems to fit the bill. Woulda rode my Rad Ripper in similar conditions. Surfed for about 4 hours with a couple water breaks mixed in. Was a little to much for the gromitas, but they had a blast taking poundings in the shore break boogieing, swimming, and body surfing. Ended an epic day with a cook out, some killer ice cream at a classic creamery, and a beautiful full moon rise over a sparkling sea and perhaps the calm before the storm.

Sunday we got wacked pretty good about 30 miles east of Westerly. NE winds maybe gusting 50 or 60, but it came through quick. A fairly typical Oregon Coast winter storm, but its different here with a lower laying coastline and more pop density esp in the Summer. Checked the closest spot to our house 3 or miles around the island. A kinda secret or used to be, a local protected cove with a left and right point like set up on each side that can go on solid swells with plenty of wind protection ideal on NE winds. Only about 6 or 8 parking spots so cant get to busy. Once again flooded early, tried to go back at low but the cops had the road closed at the beach and couldn't get past them. Ha! It was actually worse earlier, but they kept it closed all day. Reminded me of times of old and teh cops telling us to come in from the beach during similar storms. Lost power for around 24hrs. 5 or 6 boats came off their mornings or anchors and washed ashore in town.

Wind went offshore yesterday. Up at dawn again. Jumped out at the point even though it was barley working. Was supposed to be another pulse of mid period swell, but ended up being leftovers. The Lord of Newport was out, an East Coast surf skate legend I've know for years and a big part of my cousins and my early surfing and skating days. I had tried to get to the shop several times, but it was closed so I was stoked to finally catch up with the infamous Water Brother aka The Package who just hit the big 70 and has a documentary coming out. I also got the 411 on his recent trip to Slater waves. "It's not even real" The WH kinda fluffy ones to the rocks shut off, but allowed for a few turns anyways. Climbed the wall out and drove over to the beachie. Small clean runners. Jumped out, so easy to do when you don't have to put on a wet wetsuit, and had a blast catching nicley lined thigh lefts and rights on the foamy. Musta been a 5 star day on MSW cause it was the busiest so far and was a Tues. Kind of a younger COVID crowd and a lot of heads struggling with not enough board and some stylish LBers gobbling em up. Soaked in the nostalgic feels I had as a kid surfing this beach stoked to the gills on surfing back then.

So yeah wish it would stayed off shore, pulsed some good solid LP swell, and lit up my favorite point. But cant complain we lucked out taking the hit straight on and any tropical swell and not surfing close outs is welcome. Been surfing more than I have all summer if not on average and not missing it much esp inland life and PDX....... Glad to hear the flat spell is over out there. Living my best life here in the Ocean State and hopefully another swell before I return. Major-
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Re: Vax Sessions

Postby BOX » Thu Aug 26, 2021 9:44 am

Epic report, Major!

Had a good session the other night near the lighthouse. Nothing glorious but this box of summer had some fun.
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Re: Vax Sessions

Postby Howly Wolf » Thu Aug 26, 2021 1:31 pm

Refreshing change of scenery, ML-- thanks for that. Warm water sounds real nice right now; mid 50s average along the coast. Glad some waves are coming through for ya!
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Re: Vax Sessions

Postby Tex » Fri Aug 27, 2021 7:51 am

Epic post ML, grateful for the story, could picture it all clear as day in my mind. Glad you scored!
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Re: Vax Sessions

Postby Major Lazer » Tue Sep 07, 2021 9:25 am

Back in the Pac and a handful of fun ones recently on the last 2 bumps. Didn't waste too much time and surfed the Atlantic and Pacific within a couple days frothing on swell 8) but man that hand stinging cold water was painful at 1st. Fun evening blue collar sesh on the fish with all the new locals of summer at sharts. Usual lefts and a few surprisingly rights that didn't peter out immediately after the drop allowing for an inside section bash. :P

Holiday weekend family camping trip. Decided on packing 2 distinct boards, the mid (dare I say "mid") and chanced the 6'3" HPSB Ghost. Uber glass 1st few days, Sat was micro, but oh so glassy and was able to hang with LB'ers for a late afternoon affair on the mid. Sun new swell was starting to pulse yet still on the smaller side and was able to dial in the mid on its 3rd session. Still finding it hard on the later steeper drops and not as much of a wave catcher as I imagined. Have to dig deep and often jump up on the nose to get it into waves, but once up and trimming board glides through slopey weak sections getting out in front for a few gutbacks. Sandbars seemed fair if not a little walled on the set waves favoring lefts, which I find the 2+1 a little tracky on the backside. Perhaps it's about finding a new line but found it hard to break that trim for a backside turn. Regardless board kept me from searching elsewhere for steeper waves, which was nice considering we were posted up.

Up early yesterday. Winds and fog shroud that kept me from an afternoon paddle Sat had cleared. Had a bit of an early am fin debacle. Back in July I cleaned up my shorties and put them on ice. Dewaxed, de finned, replaced a frayed leash loop, etc. 1st I couldn't find a fin key, which I typically have too many of. Then once I did, one of my grub screws was stripped and couldn't get it out. After fumbling with it for a bit was finally able to get it out swapping out one of my quad box screws making thruster the only option which was fine. I was glad I got it operational! I don’t normally remove my fins, but moral of the story is set up your board before you actually need it!

Paddled out to maybe 3 or 4 heads scattered and stopped at a peak that looked OK from the beach. Was lining up off a UofO themed crab pot buoy, a peak with CH lefts and rights, the rope sometimes getting in the way. Best waves were the medium sized CH HH double ups on the inside. At least that is what the shortboard was liking and took a few to adjust to the input required to keep it moving, but sure felt spicey when I was able to put it on a rail and make a snap or gutback. Within about 30 minutes peak was done and set waves were now walled. Paddled down the beach where it was bigger and some pretty good bomb sets rolling in. Really had to be in the right spot though, many were walled or just wouldn't let you in. Wind came up and ruffled it. Sand bars are fair, but not epic if not great and perhaps a reality of Oregon surf and a juxtaposition after watching swell starved points lie dormant throughout my trip. Regardless was good to feel some juice and was able to gather some good ones if not a few gems. Hasta luego Summer.
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