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Fall/Winter 2021/2022 Surf Log

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Re: Fall/Winter 2021/2022 Surf log

Postby Major Lazer » Mon Dec 06, 2021 1:44 pm

doc comes through with rare repopo! Sounds like you are on the right track buddy. Would love to hear more about landing spot in BCS. I hope to do something similar. Warm and dry mas mejor for those old man aces and pains and right hand points for the win win win.

Wasn't planning on surfing yesterday despite favorable forecast. Had date night planned with the lady for Sat at the Timbers MLS WC finals. Figured I might be a little tired and there was talk of Xmas tree hunting the next day. Buddy hit me up early on the froth, sun was out, cams looked fun, so figured WTF. Bailed on Xmas tree hunting and rallied for mid day lazy man's at an easy one that has shaped up recently. Punched in as Channel D punched out who reported fun ones to be had. Unfortunately had clouded up, but was butter glass. King tide made it a little swampy at 1st, but as it initially sucked out there were some fun ones to be had. Peaky lefts were fast with hackable lips. Easy roll in rights on the sets were kinda slow and closely. Was able to work a few gut backs through the inside section, but ended up in a hole having to do the ole walk around. Lully swell but was fine by me as I didn't have a ton of energy for duck diving. Eventually lulls were longer and shape got less favorable as it sucked out quick to a minus low. Pleasant day all and all could of road any type craft, but opted for the trusty Radical Dadical Rippa.
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Re: Fall/Winter 2021/2022 Surf log

Postby Doc » Tue Dec 07, 2021 8:40 pm

Solid post...
No idea what you're talking about for the most part...
Not a criticism...
Just not up on the lingo...
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Re: Fall/Winter 2021/2022 Surf log

Postby Doc » Tue Dec 07, 2021 8:40 pm

Solid post...
No idea what you're talking about for the most part...
Not a criticism...
Just not up on the lingo...
Charge.
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Re: Fall/Winter 2021/2022 Surf log

Postby Chanel Derrière » Wed Dec 08, 2021 9:56 am

Hi Doc.

C'mon Doc "GUT BACK" That might be the Major's best contribution yet.

Been getting harassed by my German neighbor to take him surfing. He's not a beginner but he's been on a three year hiatus parenting, losing his mind, mushroom hunting, recumbant riding and barefoot running in short shorts. Anyway, he got a new wettie on BF and insisted Sunday looked good, so I picked him up.

Non-Stop verbal diarrhea the whole way. I like the dude but holy hell I am no conversationalist in the morning. He covered everything except how his wife and kids are and the first question I always get from mine, ":So how are so and sos wife and kids?"

Anyway, we pull up and it looks glassy good. Maybe a foot overhead on the peak and some open shoulder high shoulders. I know better than to wait during a La Nina winter and tell him we are out there now. But he's pissing about with his oat meal and taking in the sights. Eventually, I tell him I am going surfing. Please lock my car up.

Easy paddle to some very fun but crowded peaks. Despite the crowd it was easy to find a your own zone for the most part. First wave I pulled in to a right hand tube but the sun angle destroyed any hope of a quick view of glory. So I focussed on the lefts which turned out to be long and workable. Gut backs were possible. I tried some conservatives back hand hacks and each time wish I'd tried harder. My 6'5" was feeling really good though. Carve city. A step up version of ML's Rad Ripper. I got if for solid winter surf but it also feels good on softer shoulders and unlike my last step up. Nice to see a board that performs as advertised. I should surf it more often. Swell started dropping after a couple of hours. Weaker waves but still fun.

Ran into ML after showering with Co-pilot Banke. I think ML was trying to tell me he was hungover... I liked Banke's pre-shower approach.

Anyway, prob 3 hours session. Not a huge wave count but linked enough turns to make me feel pretty good about surfing, my surfboard, and enduring all manner of manic convo from a barely sane Gemran co-pilot. Apparently, he paddled out. He said, he took off on a steep one, hit his head on the flats. I said, he will probably die on the HWY 6 on the way home with the slightest neck jolt. Next day, he tells me he has whiplash but he likes surfing again... here we go...

Yesterday, had to work off the work funk. Hit the North coast at HT. Texted the local matey who was just wrapping up... bad timing. Looked very fun for the Mid-twin but as the tide sucked out and the winds were more onshore than forecast, it got really funky... a lot of paddling and a lot of unpredictable waves but found enough diamonds in the rough to feel ok. One memorable left, let me link some turns on my back hand. Went in for the Gut Back and it turned into a really fun inside right (as it can do at that spot). The drive and response of the mid-twin was a good call but the LBs and Sups got all the good ones as early entry was essential.
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Re: Fall/Winter 2021/2022 Surf log

Postby Major Lazer » Thu Dec 09, 2021 1:16 pm

Haha doc. :lol:

That low angled southerly sun does get quite blinding on right handers this time of year in the morning hours. I'd gladly take some of that soon thou. BTW - since when did adult learners and overall kooks surf in December! Soft topers and whatnots floating in the chambers zone? Stay in the cove or stay home.
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Albi Layer navigating the Brompton kook pile up.
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Re: Fall/Winter 2021/2022 Surf log

Postby Major Lazer » Wed Dec 22, 2021 6:57 pm

Winter Solstice sesh was decent. Visible snow covered Coast Range peaks from the lineup gave it that vibe, but still pretty warm water and air esp for December. Rocked the 4mil. My girls were out of town in HR and wanted me to meet them at Shredyos, but bailed on the bulebirds and groomys opting for east winds and beachies. Some things never change. Was a day over 2 weeks dry, so needed to get salted. Swell was a weird. Very steep south angled dominant wind swell probably from storms that have been pummeling NorCal. Sweeping lefts with wedgey CH drops to weak walls. Midlenghth was the call. Easy entries and glide to milk the fluffy flat walls. Some ran pretty far. Fun floaters and some backside cuttys. Always amazed how responsive this biggish board is. #57 in the books. Still shooting for 60 in 2021, but we will see. Will be posted and coasted for 5 dayz next week. Looking muy frio.
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Re: Fall/Winter 2021/2022 Surf log

Postby Chanel Derrière » Wed Dec 22, 2021 8:41 pm

Shortest Day session came through. Long long long cruisey mid twin fin rides. Hang time with SmithG and Howly. Can't complain. Glad I bailed on Spot A and opted for spot A+.

How my numbers look?
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Re: Fall/Winter 2021/2022 Surf log

Postby Major Lazer » Thu Dec 23, 2021 10:25 am

Id say good for your demographic.

OSPMidlenghtBroDown at A+ spot and no text? :cry:
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Re: Fall/Winter 2021/2022 Surf log

Postby smithgrind » Fri Dec 24, 2021 10:22 am

Major Lazer wrote:Id say good for your demographic.

OSPMidlenghtBroDown at A+ spot and no text? :cry:

Weren’t you white waving with Brewce all week?
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Re: Fall/Winter 2021/2022 Surf log

Postby Major Lazer » Sun Dec 26, 2021 6:43 pm

smithgrind wrote:
Major Lazer wrote:Id say good for your demographic.

OSPMidlenghtBroDown at A+ spot and no text? :cry:

Weren’t you white waving with Brewce all week?


Nah. Early week was to warm for may tastes. Late week. Yes. Pretty much all time.
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Re: Fall/Winter 2021/2022 Surf log

Postby Major Lazer » Wed Dec 29, 2021 6:48 pm

Who's been braving the snow and ice? Looks like some waves. Even day of days today at one spot that reeled on my feed in Pra's newish zone. Locals only I presume. The extra time needed to travel in these conditions has been killing the 60 days in 2021 dream for me and inversely not killing da ole valley rot. Might put one more together before all is said and done. It will prob suck if I do. I prefer the snow in the mountains myself, but La Push cam has been looking cool with the frosty headland and stack. Kinda already looking forward to warmer Spring sessions and a couple warm water trips on the books in 2022. HNYers guys! Image
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Re: Fall/Winter 2021/2022 Surf log

Postby Doc » Fri Dec 31, 2021 8:45 pm

A certain right...
Off a North Central coast headland...
That rhymes with...
"You're a queen in bed"...
Was working pretty good the other day.
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Re: Fall/Winter 2021/2022 Surf log

Postby Tex » Sat Jan 01, 2022 12:32 pm

Happy New Years to the OSP....here is to hoping this ol forum can survive another year. Great to have Doc back in the mix!
I am also looking forward to a high pressure/sun/long period session or two this winter....fingers crossed.
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Re: Fall/Winter 2021/2022 Surf Log

Postby Major Lazer » Tue Jan 04, 2022 3:02 pm

Yep. That's the right I saw. Should work like that all the time as with every similar headland when looking at the map at least. Perhaps one of the most cruel reality's of Oregon surf. But hey they do go every now and again. Good luck tryin to figure out when.

NY'ers Eve and Day surfs were mostly an exercise in collecting Vitamin D via sun on the face 8) Stellar conditions, but swell was suuuuper weird NY'ers eve and air was cold! Popped the tags on a new wettie and was toasty. Highlight was catchin the real ball drop with the fam at one of my favorite headland lookouts, a bitchin sun set to cap the last day light of 2021. Actually made it until midnight and copped a little buzz, the staying up part I was not planning on hoping for an early rise to beat the swamp of the king tide. Slept in and beaut of a clear crisp morning to start the year. Walked down to the beach from the cabin and was surprised to see two heads giving it a go. Light offshores subpar shape, but pretty mushy as it's know as. Guys were on SBs and should of been on Mids but it was a bit of work for little reward. Had breaky and chilled until tide turned. No motivation to hunt or drive anywhere to far. Grabbed the Mid and headed down to everyone's fav a 4 min drive down the road. Plenty of parking, but smalls once down there. Surfed the rip bowl rights. WH to CH. Inconsistent. Got a few runners even one with two guts backs and another cheater 5 back into the channel. Wind started to go from east to southeast, to eventually south. Easy going, but nothing great. The novelty of sarfin on NYers Day, a check on the new surf calendar, and sunshine for the win.
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Re: Fall/Winter 2021/2022 Surf Log

Postby Howly Wolf » Tue Jan 04, 2022 6:31 pm

Zzz
Last edited by Howly Wolf on Sat Oct 01, 2022 7:17 am, edited 1 time in total.
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