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Fall/Winter 2021/2022 Surf Log

Open to mostly benign surf topics. Like: "Gosh! I had fun on my softtop the other day". Registration is required.

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Re: Fall/Winter 2021/2022 Surf Log

Postby Chanel Derrière » Tue Jan 04, 2022 6:43 pm

Miraculously squeezed on in on NYD. Superfun. I think I'll play the numbers game also this year. However, this week is f*cked. OmiConned at work. Unfortunately I am healthy and have to hold it down for every other f*cker who is out.
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Re: Fall/Winter 2021/2022 Surf Log

Postby Major Lazer » Tue Jan 04, 2022 8:10 pm

Its interesting to look back. Sometimes it will cause the ole memory to trigger. I used to pen up occasional journal entries of quality sessions, swell, and tide conditions, which I live looking back on but now its just a mark. As I was putting last years calendar away, I compared it with 2020. I forgot how many days I had that year, but interestingly enough I only had 4 more days this year. I thought for sure I would have topped 2020 in 2021 by at least a dozen considering my back was out for the 1st 5 weeks of the year in 2020 and a month plus of Covid lock down from mid March through April both of which noted. February 2020 must of been good because I had quite a few days coming off a tightened up back and remembered a fun trip down south posted up in front of and scoring a fickle harbor bar pretty solid for 3 days just as the 1st cases were showing up in PDX. February of last year I didn't surf once. Probably cause it was bad, but also opting for some of the best white wave in decades. July of 2020 I surfed more than ever. Perhaps making up for Covid lockdown? Or maybe it was consistent wind swell and a good sandbar luring me back? This July I surfed one day and do remember it was flakskis. So those were the differences. Nothing really important here, just salty observations and perhaps continued motivation to make the ole schlep over the range.
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Re: Fall/Winter 2021/2022 Surf Log

Postby Doc » Sun Jan 09, 2022 11:07 pm

Joined the masses at Oregon's premiere beginner break...
Don't think I've paddled out there since late summer...
And, good God, it looked like summer...
In the lot & on the beach...
Paddled out at 3rd Creek...
Ended up at the North end...
Pretty warbly, dippy & bumpy but...
Some pretty chest to head high rights coming through...
Only a couple others out at that end...
Aside from soft tops and bobbers on the inside....
When did soft tops become so acceptable?
What self respecting kook can even look at their twin reflection...
In their hot girlfriend's sunglasses...
After paddling around on one of those abominations?
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Re: Fall/Winter 2021/2022 Surf Log

Postby Tex » Mon Jan 10, 2022 9:12 am

Soft tops courtesy of YouTube, specifically Jamie OBrien and Ben Gravy, all the rage among the kids these days. Glad you got some Doc.
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Re: Fall/Winter 2021/2022 Surf Log

Postby Major Lazer » Mon Jan 10, 2022 10:28 am

Ah OK. I heard. Its pretty much done there, eh? That said, was certainly quiet over NYers weekend. Sun was out, but maybe just to cold? And it was cold. And not really good either. But mostly empty. No mysto peaks doc? Seemed like the day to hunt? Some goods reeled on my feed again on the NCenCoast.

I didn't bother hunting either. Went to the other spot. 7'1" 2+1 performance egg was the choice. Mostly a novelty sesh given the fact I rode the white wave Sat arvo and evening completing my annual Hood to Coast (surfXshed within 24hrs) Was a little tired and wanted something easy for me and a buddy I was helping break a 4 month dry spell :shock: Although it wasnt big, it wasnt easy up the way. Lotsa paddling, but lully enough I only had to do the walk around once. Beautiful shape, but pretty walled :roll: Found some right corners that reeled into inside section. Mostly set a line and goooo, pretty green sun kissed walls laid out ahead. Fast into a thumpy inside section and jump out da back before it closed. Was burning up in new wettie. Ended on one of those long lefts, which were rare, but was able to set up a couple turns and then Straight Off Adolf it all the way in. White wave for the win as far as high shredablity channeling Curren and practicing drop wallets on and in my favorite banks and gullies. Even got a back 360 off the Informer hip. Beaut of a warm day in the water though esp compared to last few weeks. Juiced and all good with standing at a desk next few days, with 3 day weekend out da back!
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Re: Fall/Winter 2021/2022 Surf Log

Postby Howly Wolf » Mon Jan 10, 2022 12:44 pm

Zzz
Last edited by Howly Wolf on Sat Oct 01, 2022 7:10 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Fall/Winter 2021/2022 Surf Log

Postby Major Lazer » Mon Jan 10, 2022 6:22 pm

Ah I figured something good was cooking somewhere Howly. Glad someone here scored some nugs!
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Re: Fall/Winter 2021/2022 Surf Log

Postby Howly Wolf » Tue Jan 11, 2022 1:19 pm

Was a good weekend to be on any type of board-- waves to be had, dry pavement to skate, mountain looked insane, and word is The Hatch went off. Now back to regularly scheduled program of atmospheric disturbances and workweek ennui.
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Re: Fall/Winter 2021/2022 Surf Log

Postby Major Lazer » Tue Jan 18, 2022 10:18 am

Reminded myself why I have a few shortboards last several days. Last SB sesh was early December. Friday. Broken board at socials. Not sure how? Looked pretty crummy to me. Sand seems jacked. Low tide and lully, but oh so quiet and fun. Lapped it for a few hours. LP forerunners started to pulse last hour of light. 8) Sunday. Late arvo and low tide again. Solid and a bit broken up but some gems in the mix. Insane sunset. Yesterday early. Fun size again. Crazy moon set at sunrise. Got a bit crowded. Bailed.
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Re: Fall/Winter 2021/2022 Surf Log

Postby Chanel Derrière » Tue Jan 18, 2022 11:01 am

Broken board was Ron's. Ron has led a life very few have. Charged Indo and South Pacific spots long before many others. Anyway, he said he broke it by bailing his board. He was a little ashamed. 2nd one of that same model.

Scored a last minute yurt which gave me some much needed solo coast time. Found a good few waves here and there. Stuck to the mid-lengths. Not complaining. The coastal skateparks never dried up properly though... And I confirmed the Nehalem ramp is now long gone... had to see for myself...
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Re: Fall/Winter 2021/2022 Surf Log

Postby Howly Wolf » Tue Jan 18, 2022 11:11 am

Zzz
Last edited by Howly Wolf on Sat Oct 01, 2022 7:10 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Fall/Winter 2021/2022 Surf Log

Postby BOX » Tue Jan 18, 2022 12:18 pm

Finally got a session in yesterday after a two month or so dry spell. Beautiful day to be out. Current was pulling pretty strongly, though. Started out by the viewing platform and kept ending up down by the jetty even after getting out and walking back a few times. Found out pretty quickly that despite hitting up the pool regularly and doing body weight cardio that my paddling fitness was pretty much zero from all the time off. Wore myself out just trying to stay in position and to keep from getting sucked out. Nothing glorious but I caught a few waves and had some fun. Not a bad day in the water.
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Re: Fall/Winter 2021/2022 Surf Log

Postby Major Lazer » Wed Jan 19, 2022 6:06 pm

Interesting. I find lap swimming helps out to some degree. Try swimming intervals if not already. Also some laps with float between legs, no kick, all pull. I typically swim maybe once a week if I am not surfing. As for timing nothing seems to help. Winters large tide swings longer period swell and unsettled patterns don't bode well for most beachies and sand placement. Small to nil windows and heavy rips. Features with channels are your friend, perhaps the ocean was telling you something? Need sand too. And even then, its a 2 window at best with a 10' exchange. Glad you got out and hell of a beautiful day.
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Re: Fall/Winter 2021/2022 Surf Log

Postby harg » Thu Jan 20, 2022 11:40 am

like many others, i had a beaut of a morning on monday. I was expecting a fun grovel+ kinda day, but ended up with quite a few 'holy crap, this is a real wave' moments. didn't make the drop on my biggest/best wave of the day and got pounded. but, it was fun just to turn and go on something with pop, and even kinda fun getting pounded (tho it would have been a lot more fun stomping the drop and pulling into a stand-up barrel). most of the rest of the morning was just gems with stretched out walls and a variety of fun stuff. then the tide and dying swell fattened it up and I walked out grinning.
for swim training, try heads up freestyle laps. i got a buddy that has a hole program if you really want to get into it
http://www.xswimfit.com/index.html
https://www.surfingpaddling.com/
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Re: Fall/Winter 2021/2022 Surf Log

Postby BOX » Thu Jan 20, 2022 12:03 pm

I try to get over to the pool at least once a week. Ideally, it would be twice a week in the winter but with holidays and their reduced hours it’s been hard to get over there that often lately. Luckily I work near the rec center so I can usually get over there on a lunch break to squeeze in some laps.

I’m no Michael Phelps by any means. I wasn’t on the swim team or anything like that. I’m just a guy who (arguably) knows how to swim. But typically I go in and do a medley of different strokes to get myself warmed up. Then I switch to doing crawls and do that until about time to go and then I do intervals until the end. Elementary backstroke to cool down and I’m done.

It’s hard to replicate the same paddle you use in surfing in the pool, IMO. Was about to ask if crawling with your head up works but just saw that harg recommended it. Thanks! I'll check out those links. Major, I’ll try your trick with putting a float between my legs. I’ve seen others doing it so I’ll give it a shot and see if it helps. Thank you as well.

I think you’re on to something about incorporating more intervals. I need to work more on my power and bursts of speed, not just my endurance. It often feels like I’m going nowhere when I’m trying to paddle into a wave, especially if there’s a strong current. A lot of waves end up passing under me or I catch it too late. More foam might be the answer, but I feel like that would just mask the fact that I have an inefficient paddle. I’ve watched countless videos on the subject and feel like I’m doing what I’m supposed to do, but it’s not working for me. I try to work channels if/when I can, but I for sure lack the water reading ability of long time surfers. I’ll be paddling out fighting a battle forever trying to get out and then some guy will just zoom up behind me and get out to the line-up seemingly without any struggle. Kook frustrations, I know.

Thanks again for the tips.
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