Ah so that's where you have been. Welcome back.
Started where I left off and donned the 5
mill on Sunday. Fun family adventure with our new pup. Last one here just before I left for HI was easily in the top 2 sessions at this spot ever, which I am not going in to detail about cause there were only 2 other heads out and it was going arfff
Sunday not so much the same, but paddled out anyway. Felt weird to be back in rubber esp 7mill boots. Bit of a rip and consistent clean up sets. Eventually kind of turned on as the tide changed, but then 5 or 6 frorthers turned up
Did not really recognize any of the faces either, but what do I know anymore. One proceeded to rip the bag out of it finding diamonds in the ruff. Was on the wrong board. While the Ghost surfed everything on the island fairly well from CH to OH, its was bogging out on the flat spots even set up as a quad. What was I thinking!?! Rad Dad Rippa is down with a smashed tail and I knew I shoulda brought the fish, but last time warranted something semi HP. Between that and the crowd it turned into kind of a frustrating one. So much for coming back tuned after a week straight of surfing
Rolled back out the other day for mid day push. Small kine LP pulsing and NE winds baited the ole hook and well I bit. On paper spot X or Y shoulda been working, but no same old shitt with this sorry excuse for beach break
Hiked down to Charts, watched for about 10 minutes, turned around and hiked right back out. Was weak and crumbly and looked questionable even if I was to go back and get the mid out of my car. Swell was pulsing everywhere else WTF! In hindsight shoulda barged a nearby spot that was easily the most serviceable, one I haven't surfed since fall. Semi consistent with a few out. Oh well vibe usually sucks out there anyways and was still flying high on that Aloha, which the stupid long and dry drive home ended up squashing anyways.
Routine is a vampire. Manu Chao-