by Major Lazer » Mon Nov 15, 2021 11:59 am
Vets Day 4 day weekend was an interesting one. A new holiday for me, thanks vets for your service, this was 3rd year with paid day off. Falling on a Thurs and with PPS off on Fri made a 4 day weekend out of it. Past years have yielded sunny offshore conditions and fun beachies, but this one was quite the opposite yet waves to be had despite biblical F-ing rains!!!!!
Vets Day was smaller than expected, almost flat but clean mostly LB waves in the lee. Passed in lieu of family time and keeping the kids occupied doing toruista things we sometimes do in the off season. In hindsight should of packed their gear as the air was warm and waves pretty user friendly despite the rain, but we had fun in the arcade and ripping around on the bumper cars. Friday almost swamped the family sedan in 3'+ of standing water, but par for the course. Been awhile since I've seen that much rain and flooding. Waves were fun and nice and quiet for the most part. Woulda of been a shite drive from the valley, was bad enough driving up the coast a bit and was a little worried they'd close the road and I'd get stuck. A little shifty and a bit of paddling. Took a handful of wash arounds to get in the rhythm, but dialed in. Might of been more productive on Mid as far as paddling and wave catching, but Rad Dad Ripper yielded some fun gut backs and snaps on the ones I scratched into. Need to up the volume of this board a litter or so. Prob sell soon, which will be the last of my 33ish cL's to go. Gonna be 34+ from here on out. Stars came out early Fri eve and Sat was sunny and offshore with a new pulse. Surfed early. Swell was a little north, but provided those swingers that us garbagemen like to collect. Ghost did the trick. Window was short had family stuff and eventually back to Gotham, but sure there were waves all day. Thought it might be a sleeper day given the storm, but the Calvary had arrived.
Routine is a vampire. Manu Chao-