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Round 2 today at a more low key spot.

Watched the sun come up over the hills from the line up and had explosive diarrhea on the way home.

I could talk about the waves but I'm done talking about surfing. Hope some of you can get tomorrow off.

3 days post up and well well well classic October finally decides to show up and on my birthday none the less. 2 seshies and 5+ hours in the water Saturday to celebrate another lap around the sun. OBXesc beahies..... rode the mid on the high, shartbart on the low. Best wave was a right that offered 3 solid turns and an in and out surprise choobie on an inside bowl. Ended another sober October with a fresh hop and sunset on the beach with the fam and friend post surf gorge. Hoping for Portugal next year to celebrate a milestone.

Zzz

Thanks Howly getting up there. Given the timing, I often get waves and there have been some epic one's for sure of which this past one will be filled under. The sun and vitamin D after what felt like weeks of rain and gloom was all time.

Although mind was frothing on new swell and continued east winds, body had a case of the Mondays and needed a day off. Took a late lunch and caught a shift change yesterday. Pretty much as good as it gets, every wave a make, HH OH on sets. One of those sessions were everything is syncing, luck, waves, board, and crowd. Didn't even make it to the lineup before I nabbed my 1st one. Tight HPSB shreds on Jah Ghost and only came unglued once on an off the top. Board is off the hook when the waves are right. Pinged the boss man and took the rest of the afternoon off and dub'ed last hour for a few more eazy ones on Jah Rad Rippa. Coulda rode the mid, but there was an element of high shredablity not always present. Amazing what consistency does for ones surfing, allowing to surf to their potential as well as unlock quivers potential.

Zzz

“Solution for Brohampton”; Put a hit out on a few greedy individuals. Went down there yesterday for the first time in months. Saw a couple of Haitians gettin’ a black bean burrito at Ben and Jerry’s. People ask me all the time why I rarely cross that bridge. Truth is I got better things to do than watch Coast Guard choppers pull Portlanders and their Boardworks/Surftechs out of 10–15’ crap waves. You can get a yearly pass for parking if you love it that much.

Vets Day 4 day weekend was an interesting one. A new holiday for me, thanks vets for your service, this was 3rd year with paid day off. Falling on a Thurs and with PPS off on Fri made a 4 day weekend out of it. Past years have yielded sunny offshore conditions and fun beachies, but this one was quite the opposite yet waves to be had despite biblical F-ing rains!!!!!

Vets Day was smaller than expected, almost flat but clean mostly LB waves in the lee. Passed in lieu of family time and keeping the kids occupied doing toruista things we sometimes do in the off season. In hindsight should of packed their gear as the air was warm and waves pretty user friendly despite the rain, but we had fun in the arcade and ripping around on the bumper cars. Friday almost swamped the family sedan in 3'+ of standing water, but par for the course. Been awhile since I've seen that much rain and flooding. Waves were fun and nice and quiet for the most part. Woulda of been a shite drive from the valley, was bad enough driving up the coast a bit and was a little worried they'd close the road and I'd get stuck. A little shifty and a bit of paddling. Took a handful of wash arounds to get in the rhythm, but dialed in. Might of been more productive on Mid as far as paddling and wave catching, but Rad Dad Ripper yielded some fun gut backs and snaps on the ones I scratched into. Need to up the volume of this board a litter or so. Prob sell soon, which will be the last of my 33ish cL's to go. Gonna be 34+ from here on out. Stars came out early Fri eve and Sat was sunny and offshore with a new pulse. Surfed early. Swell was a little north, but provided those swingers that us garbagemen like to collect. Ghost did the trick. Window was short had family stuff and eventually back to Gotham, but sure there were waves all day. Thought it might be a sleeper day given the storm, but the Calvary had arrived.

Happy belated B-DAY ML....glad you have been scoring lately!

I jerked off into a sock this morning

Thanks Tex backatchya. You know how it goes.... life ain't boring when your scoring. That said I am not scoring today, but hope some of ya are taking advantage of offchores. Looks like a good day to find a quiet peak all alone at one of the randos.

Had plans this weekend to surf my way up (and back) to Seattle to hang with the newly formed Krakheads. Been many years since I have camped and surfed up in da Evergreen. To long as it is always a nice change of scenery. Ended up opting for Amtrak and walking pulling the plug mostly due to an annoying issue I am having with my adventure rig that I am waiting on a part for. Opted for a local beachie Sat and surfed myself silly between 2 seshwons totaling 5 hours. Swell was a little norte, had a little wonk in it, but cleaned as the morning offshores straightened out the lump. Lotta drops and quite a few CO's but some opened up for slashage. Rode the mid for the 1st time in a while on 2nd sesh with mixed results. Still got me some fun ones and alleviated some exhaustion. Been skipping out on gym routine, which is not good for midlife man. Had a pretty good surf hangover and body was tweaked in a sort of good way. Pulled that mussel inside of the shoulder blade and knot almost worked out 3 days later. Massage gun and turmeric for the win. Hoping to finish a fun fall month with some Thanksgiving break waves. Cheers.

Got up to the SoJdF from Thursday through Sunday. Scored River Mouth Rights all to myself on Friday AM. I had to back up off of it and put my cup down. Literally only had enough juice to paddle back down to my homies crib. No beach access so had to stay in the water. Historically, I am a short boarder but this was a long board day with 75-100 yrd rides/glides so rode a 12'0 single fin TANK that caught everything. Waist to chest high with sun blazing across the Olympics and steam rising up off the rivermouth. It was truly overwhelming, I found myself giggling like a mad man every time a new set stacked in. Oh boy....here comes another set....pure joy pure bliss. Swell dropped on Sat but on Sun AM the rivermouth started to turn on. Me and my buddy traded River Mouth lefts for about 2 hours. Nailed a couple long board cut backs and almost hung 5. When it turns on up there, it is as close to perfection as any surfer could hope for. A right proper four day sojourn off grid. A great way to ring in the big 5-0.

HBD Tex. Sounds like Neptune came though for you on that one. Glad you got some spots that are close to your heart. Stoked.

ML, saw you and co-pilot Banke on Saturday. Was certainly fun that morning. A little soft at HT but long workable rides. Had fun on the 7'6" twin going left... short session but pretty non-stop.

Sunday I went south. Swell dropped significantly but ended up at an amplified spot. Way busier than I have ever seen it but the peaks move around and there were a lot of them. had the wife in tow so didn't milk the session but as you can see from the above photo, there were some goods on offer. Should have busted out the shortboard for that session but like a dummy, with wife and dog I opted to keep it simple, and only took the one board... caught up with Pragression. He was amping.

Saturday before this weekend, I had a one wave session. But what a wave... perhaps the biggest I have ridden at this spot. Was kind of shaking to the point, I knew I wouldn't be able to top it. Then got drilled and called it. That wave was worth about ten regular ones though... so all good.

So far the high pressure gaps in La Nina have proven pretty worthy. I'm typically one to stay out for too long but I am kind of enjoying these shorter sessions... get it done and get out...