Ah OK. I heard. Its pretty much done there, eh? That said, was certainly quiet over NYers weekend. Sun was out, but maybe just to cold? And it was cold. And not really good either. But mostly empty. No mysto peaks doc? Seemed like the day to hunt? Some goods reeled on my feed again on the NCenCoast.
I didn't bother hunting either. Went to the other spot. 7'1" 2+1 performance egg was the choice. Mostly a novelty sesh given the fact I rode the white wave Sat arvo and evening completing my annual Hood to Coast (surfXshed within 24hrs) Was a little tired and wanted something easy for me and a buddy I was helping break a 4 month dry spell
Although it wasnt big, it wasnt easy up the way. Lotsa paddling, but lully enough I only had to do the walk around once. Beautiful shape, but pretty walled
Found some right corners that reeled into inside section. Mostly set a line and goooo, pretty green sun kissed walls laid out ahead. Fast into a thumpy inside section and jump out da back before it closed. Was burning up in new wettie. Ended on one of those long lefts, which were rare, but was able to set up a couple turns and then Straight Off Adolf it all the way in. White wave for the win as far as high shredablity channeling Curren and practicing drop wallets on and in my favorite banks and gullies. Even got a back 360 off the Informer hip. Beaut of a warm day in the water though esp compared to last few weeks. Juiced and all good with standing at a desk next few days, with 3 day weekend out da back!
Routine is a vampire. Manu Chao-