Sup hommies hope your hanging in there with this cold wet weather. Imagine there's been some swell in the water. Maybe some Social Securities or late season Infamous seshies, but probably a rough go for the boys of summer at Sands and NW wind spots? Surprised to hear of more epic white waves in May none the less
Pehaps I should of booked for the end of the month and continued to shred my pass away.
Anyways completed another successful Mex trip to a zone I've been to 3 X's now. Was almost perfect swell wise. 1st few days started out on the small and fun side 2-3 at 15 to 18 seconds and was able to get tuned at an average quality uncrowded beach break before venturing to the left hand river mouths and points. Well needed after a very unproductive and lack luster April for me around here. Swell slowly ramped up peaking and holding at 5-6 at 16-18 seconds and 6-12 foot faces at the premier destination. Sand placement was not perfect at this regional classic that I've seen produce world class in the past. That and swell direction had a bit of west in it, the combined factors making it a bit shifty. All and all cant complain, still some long ones, warm water was amazing, and better than anything around here. Was just amazing to get back down to Mex speak some Espanol and GTFO out of the USofA. I love the people and culture donwn there and am always treated so well.
Took 3 boards and glad I packed the Middy as it netted some waves at the softer cobble river mouth that was a little crowded at times. Finally put the quads in and MAN board lit up netting one of my most memorable waves!!! After just popping out at dawn at the top of the point a perfect set wave came and rolled right in with speed and plenty of time to adjust and set up a big hooking cutty back into the pocket and set up for 3 more turns before kicking out almost a mile down the beach. The visual is engrained in my head, the early morning light, sun just stating to peak over the mountains, a tapered wall forming up ahead lightly groomed by the am offshores......
As one of the thicker crowds filled in at this spot that morning I was able to collect waves and compete with the others many on mids, alt, and fun shapes yielding a solid wave count and probably the most productive session I had on the trip.
Ghost came in handy and realized how reliable a good HPSB with paddle power is in solid surf and not sure I want to f@#K around with anything else other than maybe adding a little more foam in the future. Opted for medium thruster set, although I have preferred a quad set up on this wave in the past. Figured since is was not as lined up as in the past might be the the call, but after reviewing some clips a local videographer got of me I think a quad or large sets of thruster fins may have smoothed my style out a bit. Always eye opening and humbling seeing yourself surfing on video.
Anyways all and all a good trip. Budget travel in Mex is not for everyone, but its the way I've been doing it for almost 30 years now and really wouldn't change a thing other than staying one night in a douchie longboard town that reminded me of a beach version of SF or Portland. I guess ever since the Duct Tape and Mexi Log Fest came though a few years back, its kinda been on the map for the hip youngsters and therefore catering to that scene. To each their own I guess, but will not stay or go there again. Now lookin forward to my next trip in July and hope to score some right points.
Routine is a vampire. Manu Chao-