Highly anticipated windswell yesterday was a bit underwhelming. Swell had a bit of east in it, so decided to check what can be a punchy peaky rock combo beachie on the mainland early. Will typically pick up the easterly swell and was offshore, but was flatskis so moved on 5 or so miles to a pretty popular one these days. A classic cobble stone stretch of beach with about 5 different A frame reef peaks. Home to the contemporary Rhody logging scene due its quality long running peelers. Swell was showing waist to maybe chest max on the sets.
Paddled out on the 7'6" foamy amongst an armada classic logs. A New England SanO Malibu-esq scene. Paddled between 3 peaks nabing some long running lefts on the soft toper. Crowd was pretty thick and seemed more like a social gathering folks yapping about this and that. So and so in Hawaii, about kids partying night prior, and some classic "paddle wicked haaard" outbursts. All and all lots of smiles and friendly vibes per usual here.
7'6" did well but interesting watching some of the locs paddle into knee to calf high waves and milk them trimming 100 yards down the reef. Waters about 75, so baggies and a 1.5 mill top fit the bill amongst the overcast skis from the quickly passing front. Per usual despite one day of small surf so far, living my best life here, enjoying daily salt air, perfect air temps and ever present sea breeze, jumping off cliffs, spearfishing, swimming, and lounging on the beaches.
Fingers X'ed for some more swell soon.
Routine is a vampire. Manu Chao-