by Tex » Fri Nov 11, 2022 3:09 pm
Well done Doc!!!
I was up in WA with low expectations on the surf even though we saw a decent swell forecasted. I have always just enjoyed my time on the land up there, the waves, if they turn on are always a bonus. My son and I started Thursday afternoon off with road improvement efforts by spreading gravel via shovel and wheel barrow to fill in dips and holes- excellent workout by the way. We spent Friday making a trip into town, who can pass up an afternoon at Swains?!?!? (swell still had not arrived and wind was wrong anyway). That afternoon we did demo work on one of the smaller cabins. My 17 yr old put his new Carhart jacket to use as we got the kitchen and bathroom down to the studs. Saturday, swell was getting interesting, watching lines creeping down the Strait...so did more demo and just about 3:00 it turned on at the beach break in front of the cabin. My youngest got the surf kyak and my buddy and I rode long boards and traded waist high waves with a full moon rising!
Sunday I woke up at first light and checked the point from our deck....9 guys on it. Which was compelling to a younger man. But, that is actually a crowd with a very small take-off window. If I was still in my 40's I would have grabbed my short board and kayaked over there, frothing at the mouth to get my share. Instead, I made sausage links and cinnamon rolls and poured myself another round of coffee. I was a bit tired from all the projects on property and the late eve sesh the day before. It was fun watching the crew ripping down the line for most of the day. At 2:30 my buddy and I decided we needed to get some. So we headed out front to the beach break. It was ok but the rivermouth was better. I told my buddy I was going to head east. He said, long paddle against the current, good luck. The longboard was feeling extra thick and floaty so I made the 400 yrd paddle in about 15 min. I was rewarded for my efforts as I slipped in to 15-20 glassy waves ranging from waist to chest high and they were at least 50 yrd waves. My tank was full. Used the rip to get back to the house in 10 min.
Age has definitely mellowed me out, I have lower expectations, less pressure and it allows me to be more at peace with the conditions that are presented. When its flat, I chill or do fun projects on the property. When it pumps, I take a breath, watch a while and jump in when I am GOOOOD and READY.