Summer Surf Log 2023

[Major Lazer]

Typically opt out of coastal 4ths and avoid the madness 4+hrs east for a mix of off the grid camping in the mtns and a little bit of merica celebration, but gas is expensive, the mosquitos are bad from a late winter cold wet spring, and it was/is hot. Buddy and fam were keen on camping at beach and lined up a campsite in Brohapmton, so I figured I'd make some memories for the kids and join. They have grown up so quick I feel like time is fleeting and they will be gone beofre I know it. Forecast looked OK, not flat at least, and easy spot to trench in and stay put. Had no interest in driving up and down or to and from coast on the 4th. Last year we all had Covid and felt like we needed to do something this year, although I would of been fine at home with maybe an early strike on river.

Surf was meh.... some 8 second wind swell with a little size, but NW wind was nuke for the most part and sand bars are garbage as clearly seen from cam. No more surprises at SOCAM, as it's pretty much in view 24/7 now. Nor any surprises at the TA or BS, but wind was a factor down there. Passed on the 3rd, but wind was a little lighter on 4th in the am and had one maintenance sesh once the tide filled in a bit. Handful corners to be had on the mid, med crowd, freezing water temp. Got one or two turns, but that was it. Also felt like I surfed like shiit or maybe it was just the waves? Highlight was early am sesh exploring the Cape during the 2' minus low in my suit wadding and swimming around. I think the kids are finally embarrassed of their weird Dad and did not suit and boot and join me in my immersive exploration as they have in the past

Beach lit up with illegal fireworks as expected and was quite the show scene. Woke up and did July 5th beach clean up and was not to bad TBH, but people got started before us. Wind was up and fog was at the water line. Walked and cleaned to the TA and back peering out Chambers along the way and just no structure I could see Fog peeled back midday and could of had another maintenance sesh, but passed. Hit the river and scored one of my favorite swimming holes 6-8 glassy empty and trunkable Made it back to Gotham early evening and got blasted by the heat, but we beat most of it and hopefully made some memories along the way.

[Tex]

wrapping up 7 days up in the SOJDF....not looking forward to getting back into Gotham.
Got 4 surf sessions in all told, and getting a lot more comfortable on the 9'1. Wind swell up here made surf less than ideal but did a bunch of campfires, renovation projects (the kid is pulling carpet as we speak) and got the cabin cedar all prepped for the winter. I loved being up here on the 4th, very quiet, in this little neck of the woods. The grom tried the left on point, he got pretty sketched out trying to drop in on waist high waves in calf deep water breaking over the boulders. But he scored a couple runners. So he was stoked.

[Major Lazer]

Wrong time of year as you know.... shoulda took him to Hoebuck or La Push for session or two and a change of scenery. La P is a rad spot. Been wanting to do a family trip circumnavigating the peninsula with a night or two there. Only surfed it once and got it pretty fun and uncrowded.

Wellp my luck with the randos finally ran out this am. Wind died yesterday and stayed at 0knts overnight on the bouy. 6@9 seemed like plenty of swell for exposed areas. Have had luck in this zone recently on these on summer minus lows, which have turned sand bars that are usually outside and mushy into punchy peaky inside bar waves. Gloomy Goonies grey glass early. Bounced back and forth between 2 open beachies I have been scoping, one a creek mouth right and left that has looked interesting, but not quite interesting enough to give it a go. Ended up back at the other one I've surfed pretty fun last few times. After checktey checking and ho humming had to take a work call and during that time WSW wind started to puff. Didn't look great and didn't see the peaks that were lining up in previous weeks. Suited and booted and out there anyways hans solo. Waves were weak for a 6@9 with not much push to get in, guess it's summer now.... got a few, but pretty ugly. Rode the new fish. HP Egg probably would of yielded a few more, but was just not good man. Current was a bit strong, fought it for a while but eventually drifted down the beach a ways before I gave up. One of those where I wonder if it gets a check mark on the surf calendar May be time for a break from the surfing monkey on my back and time for the rivers, lakes, mtns, and other enjoyable summer hobbies.

[smithgrind]

Met up with an old OSPer, now new coastie Loc, Slimvest, at a very shhh, shhh, shhh and sharky spot.
Water was murky and had some stink to it but the sun was out and waves were glassy A frames with
lined up right corners. Just the two of us for two hours. More wiggles than I could shake a stick at.
Rode a 5’4” twin that has me over the moon as of late.

[Tex]

LOC/Slim- miss his posts for sure. Glad you two scored, sounds rad.

[BOX]

Tons of fun near the lighthouse last night.

Nothing epic size-wise, but lots of nice, chest-high runners perfect for a middle-aged dude with a longboard. Even had the place to myself for a little while. Wave count was way up and so is the stoke. Definitely not a bad day in the water. Stoke level = quark-gluon plasma

[Hey Kunce!]

I was showering the other day and some kunt tells me, he saw me get a few good ones. I know kunt was trying to be nice but they weren't good ones. Made me a bit miffed.

Love you Kunce.

[Major Lazer]

now new coastie Loc

Him and every one else that has moved out there in the last 3 years.

That spot always gives me the creeps.

[Hey Kunce!]

Finger sent me some pretty good photos of a shark attack (on a seal) at that spot.

Love you Kunce.

[Major Lazer]

From what I understand, the location of one of the few fatalities on surfers on entire West Coast.

[Tex]

Heading back North on Tuesday night...zero expectations....will see.

[Major Lazer]

Save some gas (and time) and just go straight to Indian. Nothing else to see......

[Tex]

kid has a summer job on the Lyre, the surf is a bonus if it turns on. may explore open ocean spots next weekend.

[Major Lazer]

Oh up there.... gotcha. Seems like that would take a miracle. Id head to the ocean proper, although this cam has been looking tiny!

[Hey Kunce!]

Despite the lackluster numbers, I found some waves, Kunce. Sunday. Not half as busy as I thought it would be at Bodhi's. Some shreddable mush. Twin plus trailer on the grove. Felt pretty good to link a few turns in the gash. Even managed three+ turns on some of those little kunce.

Anyway by 10am there were a lot more kunce in the water so I left for a meat pie up the road. Kunce gave me shite for me accent but delivered a solid fuckn' meat pie, so bob's my uncle again. Round the best roundabout on the north coast (kunce don't know how to use them eh?) and then back south.


Love you kunce.