That's rad you and your boy have been getting after it! The gromitas have not gotten in the water yet this year and don't seem to be as keen on it recently kinda becoming city girls
Youngest opted out of Otter Rock and Roll after 4 or 5 years. Oh well OR surfing is not about competition anyways IMO. Empty peaks have been plentiful this June, but stoked most people just go straight to Sharts. After all it does take some knowledge and lots of perseverance to put the randos together, but when the stars do align wouldn't have it any other way
My tolerance for the fuukery down there is at an all time low (where's the puke emoji)
Summer Solstice seshwon was a routine one. Got the pro start at dawn, in the water by 7:45ish, and in the office by 11ish nasal dripping and stoked
Saw a glass window in between weather and wind pattern changes. Wind went east on the buoys overnight, but dead calm along the shoreline. Golden morning with sun popping and zero gloom. Went straight to the chuck of sand my homie and I had luck with on Sat am given conditions, swell, and tide were about the same. Quick check above confirmed some peelers off same bar, so suited, booted, and out dere solo dolo. Water was balmy after a few days of south winds and was burning up in 4 mill. Coulda gone sans boots I think. It was also a murky green filled with sediment, plankton, and seaweed chunks. A grey whale was spouting in between feeding dives scraeping the bottom for krill at about 12:00 and maybe 100 feet out. No pinnipeds to note, which was a little eerie considering the murky waters and no one else out
Guess the grom sea dogs from Sat were off frothing somewhere else.
Waves were a little lumper than they looked from shore and swell a tad bigger than Sat at 6@9 and little more walled, but same swell direction overall. Christening session for the twin plus training wheel! First few were on the right and nursed the bottom turn in fear of sliding out and both ran off in front of me. Next one tried to get the high line I like off the drops and board said NO! Think that's a quad thing, a line I have gotten so accustomed to. Waves seemed to get more walled as tide continued to bottom out and board has a bit more foam and width than I am used for for a fish or low end SB. Got a few more rights and board would speed and then bog, couldn't figure out how to get it to just goooo. Prob a result of ridding the cruisey mid to much or maybe waves. But loosey goosey of the top on a few turns I had. Then caught a few lefts, which ended up being better and was surprised how well it went with projection and drive right out of the bottom turn, which held nicely on! Got a few BS snaps and board whiped around without much effort. Like skating with super loose trucks. Didn't really get any roundys or gut backs that I could sink the rail on. I think getting the rail in the water will be important for this board and will definitely have to adjust my style of putting all my weight into turns. All and all interesting session and looking forward to getting it in some better surf and figuring out some new lines this design favors. I think it's going to be a fun learning curve for me
Routine is a vampire. Manu Chao-