oregonsurf.com

So for those of you who are new to the forum, BOX, this is for you....a small back story. Since I started trying to surf back in 1989, the longest board I ever owned was a 7'0. I was duped into buying my first board (actually pops bought it) a Don Kadawoki 6'5 chipper that the Venice Beach surf staff swore would be a perfect board to learn on. I struggled violently for months before bumping up to a 7'0 fun board from Ricky Young up in Bellevue WA. Actually wish I still had that one but after scraping together a couple summer seasons on that board I found myself on a personal journey to surf shorter boards. Too many Tom Current classic VHS movies convinced me that the only way to go was shorter. Dipped sub 7 with a Richie Collins Contra Board, I felt like I had finally arrived. It was a spear and honestly not that great but looked bad @ss. Finally got all the way down to a 5'11 twin fin my brother bought on his last trip to Costa Rica, great wave hog and perfect board to teach toddlers how to ride.

Fast forward to today, I am picking up my first longboard at Cleanline. The past couple of winters I have been borrowing my bro's TEN ft tank and I have experienced glide. I made it to 51 before moving to a long board. It should be an interesting chapter. I am getting a 9'1 Torq, figure minimize expenses just in case I end up not loving long boarding. Plus resale is kinda nuts on these things.

I will be the guy on a blue LB at 2nd or 3rd creek, hopefully furthest out, snagging the early bumps and gliding all the way in.

I have gone the other direction. I rode LBs exclusively in the 90’s when I started to really
make surfing a priority in my life here in the PNW. I was in my early 30’s, freshly divorced
without a child and with plenty of free time. Climbing, surfing, partying and chasing tail kept
me in tip top shape.
I will be one year away from turning 60 this summer and my main boards range from 5’4” to
5’10” now. It’s been over two years since I rode my longboards. I need to sell one or both of them.
I’m old, lazy, tired and can’t be bothered with strapping my LB on the car racks or dragging it down the trail
at SS anymore. I save my energy for groveling on shortboards in marginal conditions and connecting
surfing to my skateboard roots as a kid.

Wave count was through the roof last night with my new 9'1 Torq....hike back up slayed my arms lol.

BOX, this is for you

Aww, shucks...

I love my longboard.

When I bought it spring of last year it honestly felt like I was giving up. It seemed like I was going in the wrong direction in terms of my progress, and I’ll admit, it was a bit of a blow to my ego and a harsh reminder that I’m not exactly a young buck anymore and needed a bit more float.

The board I bought didn’t even look exciting. Instead of a flashy red or cool electric blue, it looked like a 9’ tongue depressor. But after a long period of frustration with my previous board I resigned myself to the fact that I probably was never going to do aerials on a 5’ potato chip or even get passably competent on a hpsb. I decided that I just wanted to have fun. So I got over myself and took the LB out.

And, man, did the stoke reignite. I’m having so much fun. Even the bad days are good days. I’ve totally embraced the middle-aged guy on a LB lifestyle. No one is ever going to invite me to join the pro tour but I’m surfing the best I ever have and having a ton of fun in the process. Don’t get me wrong, I’m still totally a kook but I’m out there catching waves and having a blast most sessions. Someday I may even learn how to cross-step and get up to that nose.

Tex, I use a board bag with a shoulder strap to haul my log to/from the water. After a long session carrying that big board up those stairs at Otter or Agate can be brutal for sure.

Just get SUP. Skip the paddling and pop up.

Maybe for my 60th birthday.....

Life is change, and re discovering yourself. Ill be surfing between manz and seaside sat thru wed

Good on ya Blue, hope you score bruh!
I am taking my boy up to the SOJDF for a week of work on my friends beach property....hopefully the swell turns on a bit!

Find me on the 9'6 between LC and Beverly

INTERN, back from the dead, nice to hear from ya, LB fer life.

Word. Hope you guys get some fun ones! Forecast has changed a little, but supposed to be some swell on tap for the holiday. Intern you may want to extend your zone south a wee bit....... One of the better sand bars. Just check the Ossies Insta feed. Someone has stacked a surprising and staggering amount of clips and they've been blowing it up on the daily

Thanks for the tip, that’s spots on the radar, was going to zoom there if a little north was crowded up or dull. I got some new film in my waterproof camera, so itching to get in.

Ha, that's my exact set up, pov angle so you cant see my poop stance.

From a Secret Spot..

Those remind me of pics I have taken on trips in Indo and Centro America with those disposable water cameras of times past. I used to pick one up for every surf trip I went on and got some pretty decent water shots. I would have a very hard time surfing those sized waves at Shorties esp with how weak it can be down there even when its head high.