by BlueandWhite » Fri Jun 16, 2006 11:30 am
Am I a surfer? I get butterflies in my stomach when I drive West towards the Pacific, anticipating my first view of the open ocean, hoping to see perfect lines. The excitement of looking for signs that I’ll find what I want, trying not to plough my car into the oncoming traffic as I look over the sea walls and trees to my right. I watch weather forecasts, with religious devotion, checking swell predictions, wind directions, tide times…
My most recent search for waves took the form of a solo 21 day exploration of the Oregon and Northern California coastline, travelling the coast, sleeping in my car, following the swell. I surfed Davenport, where the waves were solid double overhead. I rode lefts and rights; and enjoyed them all. One morning I awoke to monstrous swell and I spent the day just staring at the ocean admiring the beauty and power of it all. At Humboldt me and a local scored Pete’s Reef, empty and overhead. My experiences on this trip helped lead to my questioning of myself. Can I consider myself a surfer?
There is a lineage, a history that runs way back to the ancient Polynesians and beyond. Our documented history can be traced back as far as the 18th century, and prior to that we can make an educated guess at the development of this history. It begins, at the creation of the Polynesian people, with the movement of migrants from East Asia towards Alaska and the Pacific Isles. Documented history begins with Captain Cook, who, whilst visiting Tahiti in 1777, observed an island native performing this act and was prompted to write “I could not help but conclude that this man felt the most supreme pleasure whilst he was driven on so fast and so smoothly by the sea….”
Is this news to any of you? It should be, for very few of you know my passion. I am a kayak surfer as was the islander, watched by Cook all those years ago. I have been riding waves only a few years, but it has become the driving force in my life.
I have to endure stink-eye, verbal abuse and physical intimidation from people surfing breaks. Why? Because I don’t ride a board. I am sure that everyone reading this article will have experienced the frustration of being dropped in on by someone who doesn’t know what they are doing. Imagine how much more frustrating it is when this is done as a completely calculated act, purely because of what, not how, you are surfing…
It is not common knowledge that surfing originated in canoes and closed deck kayaks. We can say with great confidence that surfing almost undoubtedly began as an unconscious act carried out on a daily basis by the Polynesian islanders and Alaskan Inuit alike. Both tribes used surfing as a method of getting their fish catch to shore in the quickest time possible, riding their respective craft, in the case of the Polynesians four or five man outrigger canoes, and in the case of the Inuit single man closed deck kayaks, to shore without tipping. It was a skill that required long hours of practice, great courage and was ultimately well respected. History shows that it was the Polynesians who developed this into a leisure activity and brought it forward to the form we are all familiar with today, that of board riding.
So why is it that I consider myself to be a surfer? It is because of all the things I have written here, indeed it is because of the fact that I have written them. I have an open mind that is willing to accept all forms of wave riding as legitimate, to recognize the brilliance of the individual for what they do as well as how they do it. It is because my next trip will consist of two long boarders, one short boarder, and myself, no prejudices will be taken on this trip. It is also because of my desire for the next trip to un-crowded reefs and my constant look out for the next perfect wave. So, am I just some goat boater or am I a surfer? You decide…
"It has become appallingly clear that our technology has surpassed our humanity."
- A. Einstein