by Paul Dresman » Sun Nov 19, 2006 11:39 am
Couldn't afford California with children.
For me, it turned into a smart move. Learned to ski, and, when children grew up, I returned to surfing to find this big coastline.
Everything on the coast is super-sized in Oregon. Human beings are dwarfed in these seascapes. Like Doc said, it's a risk. It is a bigger adventure.
I still love warm water surfing, but I miss Oregon when I'm somewhere south of here. Mountains and rivers! You can be alone here in an infinity of space.
Since I've been here, I've surfed in snow, been in perfect waves by myself on a number of occasions, or with one or two other riders.
And, like someone else said, I really like Oregon surfers--they have a good attitude.
You want cold--try Rincon or Lower Trestles any day it is surfable. It is cut-throat in those line-ups, and you won't get a wave. And there's always some edged-out wacko yelling at people, a sure sign of the psychic instability of over-crowded life.
After consecutive days of 35 K SW winds and Victory-at-Sea conditions, I do begin to doubt. But then I walk outside and breathe the oxygen-rich air.
My utopia--a winter-time trailer somewhere in Baja; late spring to fall in the northwest.