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Had my fair share of saltwater for lunch today. First time out on a bigger board in a long damn time (8'6 mini) with some co workers. Chest high, punchy little waves at a good beach break that holds any sort of SW dribble. Lots of texture but managed to catch a handful of great rides. Forgot the feeling of not having to pump to maintain speed on slower sections...and just getting to dance your weight all over to maintain. Good stuff.

Back to the floaty fish tomorrow though. God bless duck-diving.

3/2 no booties. lots o' leg humpers. epic.

Da Cruz is burning, burning, burning.

Heading down as soon as the hood becomes necessary. Amping. Probably early oct for a month or so and then a couple months in baja...

Just spent 10 days in Orange County. Air temp was in the high 80's. Water temp in the low 70's. Surf was consistently 3-5 feet with the occasional bomber to clear things out. Suprisingly, the crowd was never an issue.

Ventura area is pumping head and a half rincon yesterday. Going out for another session laters.

Quagmeyer wrote:Ventura area is pumping head and a half rincon yesterday. Going out for another session laters.

Oh yes it has. And that rain a little while back did magic to the sand at some spots, didn't it?

It was good times for sure, just got back in Canada so cold and wet but it's nice to be back home, didn't go to Baja, got obligations on the coast for the winter but I'll still be getting lots of waves in so it beats being in the city.

6 ft at 20 seconds. Headed for just north of Pt. Conception. Super fun and glassy the whole time.

Anybody else got the goods lately?

Swell has been non stop in some areas of central cal/so cal. Super good conditions too.

My boys have been gloating bout how good NorCal's been this fall and early winter. Just got invited on a little mid winter Central Cal boat trip to some spots I've never surfed, stoked! Still a big place in my heart for the surf down there.

Dub Star wrote:My boys have been gloating bout how good NorCal's been this fall and early winter. Just got invited on a little mid winter Central Cal boat trip to some spots I've never surfed, stoked! Still a big place in my heart for the surf down there.

Take Spent with you and forget about the Mollusk t shirt.

smithgrind wrote:and forget about the Mollusk t shirt.

No way dude. Mom just got me some Molusk greenbacks for Xmas and I know there's no Mollusk in Ventura, but I am gonna rent a moped and buzz down to Venice just to get one man. So rad.

Dub Star wrote:My boys have been gloating bout how good NorCal's been this fall and early winter. Just got invited on a little mid winter Central Cal boat trip to some spots I've never surfed, stoked! Still a big place in my heart for the surf down there.

i wanna go...

Just got back cruisin the Cruz. Started down the day after xmas

27th: solid doh, got one wave and redemption at middles. Last trip couldn't get a single outside wave there during similar conditions. That place is a trip cause you have to pop up just before the wave gets a hold of you and then the very tip of the peak catapults you onto the middle. Then it's a matter holding on to stay up til it's safe to carve around.

28th: Swell shrunk but was still head high. Surfed 26th beach break and got some top of the wave down the line action.

29th: still smaller, went to 4mi. The point section was wobbly but the reef part was predictable and exciting. Came out of my first b/s tube. So much easier to surf down there.

got back the 30th

Then went to Ken Wormhoudt skatepark and rolled my ankle. Had to come back early. Probably will take two weeks to heal.