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Just hit Encinitas for a week, then headed south thru SD, played a show in TJ - then back up to Ventura over to Santa Barbara.

NOW in Honolulu. First time here! Had to leave my boards in the parking garage in L.A. - had to buy board shorts for the first time ever!?

So now I'm officially running LOW on cash. Any advice on cheap rentals? Need to find a longboard, as it looks like there's not much aside from maybe this Thursday while I'm here.

Here for a week.

PS CA was flat (mostly), empty, and still a blast...

Surfed Malibu with about 12 other people in the water.
I didn't know that the numbers ever got that low.

Ventura was for sure the highlight so far though.

Tripped me out when I realized the house I rented in Encinitas was across the street from Surfy Surfy (I had no idea where they were actually). But I always check their blog for board porn.

at least someone is having a good time. Havent been on a surf trip in a while. Jones factor 10.

looks like you will be scoring today and tomorrow...please report back. My fam has been updating with reports of perfect weather and now, with the arrival of this south swell, plenty of early season stoke.

Thursday was amazing. Hit a spot off of some military base; then drove and drove looking for less wind - only to end up in Waikiki. And actually had some epic surf there.

North shore the past few days. Some good surf here and there. Today being the stand out.

Overall... the experience has been strange. I have a hard time relaxing in places where you're supposed to relax, and ignore the fact that most of the local community is just bummed on outsiders. I can do it, but I'm just always a little too aware.

That and... did I mention I've NEVER surfed w/o a wetsuit!? Wow... A) amazing. B) I think that cold Oregon water is providing some adrenaline boost and the the cold water must be keeping my arms nice and numb. I've been dead tired almost instantly after every paddle out here, and they've been pretty chill compared to OR. Heat? Salt? Maybe I'm just getting old and drinking way to much beer....

Back to LA tomorrow for what looks like nice swell coming thru all the way back up to home ))).....

Hope you had a good trip could have helped but never read your post sorry. 10' tiger shark attacked a surfer at my local break on Tues. Funny how it came about I got off work early and headed over for a surf, it was up a bit at maybe 5' but pretty unorganized so I grabbed a couple of beers and my board and figured I'd sit on it for a bit and see if it would clean up. I wanted to paddle out bad but something kept me from going in so after about an hour I gave up to go bodysurfing. Guy got tagged right after I left right where I was going to go out. My girl and I had seen the tiger a couple of days before so that probably had something to do with my reservations...As far as the south swells they are just as mythical here as most places, the more it's talked up the less likely it is to show

Back in Oregon now. Great trip. What a day to come back to also! T-shirt weather, and some good surf. : )))))