by Doc » Tue Nov 03, 2009 6:42 pm
I surfed recently...
Don't recall exact time or place...
Watched a beach break peak...
Being dominated by Neck Deep...
But needed better access...
To a toilet, shower and beer...
So headed to the north...
Surfed a fun chest high peak...
Mostly lefts and alone...
Then moved north...
To join the fracas...
Soft lined up fun rights...
With an occassional left...
May have seen...
Gaz, brdsurf, Neck and others...
I love longboard waves...
Especially when people around me...
Insist on shortboards.
Doc
"If you don't surf...don't start".