by pra_ggresion » Thu Sep 30, 2010 9:23 am
Well the first thing you need to know about surf in oregon is that you don't talk about surf in oregon. Third thing is that Gaz and Doc run things around here. It's like Da Hui but in Oregon. If you think you got what it takes to surf the Epicenter then you better check yourself before Gaz wrecks yourself with a pony whip. And if you think for a second that your going to check spots all day every day and drink beers after a bitchin' session, then think again. Cause, Doc already does that and won't give you a nod.
I recommend a 6mil cause eventually they shrink, so it'll last longer but 5mil suffices 2 to 3 years and even some nuts claim they sport a 4-3 but I think they're full of it. Wear gloves and booties always and you'll never be dissapointed and have to adjust. Pretty much everyone would disagree, but bear claw sucks and it's not like you can feel your board under your feet after an hour bootyless anyways. Any board goes, you'll find what works where soon enough.
Potato salad or die!