April's Surf Reportage

[Friend Of The Hawk]

Really fun head high lefts and rights slight offshore.....
Lots of heads in the water, plenty of waves to go around...

[McDing]

Foth-----------I'm sure Tom can put it all back together for you.

[Chunk]

.

[McDing]

You're kiddin'? Not THE "Chunk"?

[Tatonka]

glad I went Friday, had a great time and it looks like Wanty will get his way for a while. Watched an LC all-star killing head-highs; impressively late droppage made for satisfying sideline spectating.

[TSOL]

Dude it was so awesome this weekend check out the swells..
http://imgur.com/aIPGW

[dogfur]

Sunday 9:30 am, so jay flow - light off shore wind, high thin overcast, just letting a little yellow sunlight through. About 4 people out and a couple suiting up. Not glassy, just a little texture, the low spots filled with the gray reflection of the sky.
Took the middle rip and paddled down to my favorite spot, everyone else was a little further down the beach. First wave was head high right, maybe 1 ft. over (full disclosure - I'm just a little feller mmhhmm). Rode it over to where everyone else was.
Probably my best wave of the day, heard a couple "nice wave"s. Okay, off to a good start. Sat with the crowd (6 others plus myself!) Let a few go by. Second wave I was a little too late and deep, pearled my board. Ah, back to reality. Caught several decent waves after that, the swell dropped steadily during my three hr. session, except for that one set that defined the term "clean up set" Scratched and clawed my way out as hard as I could, turned after the last wave to see just myself and one other guy left, everyone else on shore. The wind picked up and conditions deteriorated and it was back to the bus at 12:30.
Played some fetch with the big yellow dog in the freezing cold wind, now about 25-30 knots out of the north, and washed some cheese and crackers down with an ice cold Full Sail. Yum. Took a nap on the couch and woke up to the phone ringing. My youngest daughter calling from Santa Cruz. "Dad, it's 75 degrees here and beautiful, the cove is full of surfers!" Lucky little brat.

[Doc]

Finally got wet again since early February...
Spent the weekend patching rails and tails...
So I was properly equipped for the dropping swell...
6 foot at 9 seconds was the Noa it all call...
But 3 foot was more realistic at everyone's drive up peak...
Pretty empty lineup overall...
3 or 4 people out at any given time...
One arm paddled it out...
Pretty painful but survived...
Then as I paddled for my first wave...
Realized there would be no "pop up"...
My left arm is so whacked & weak...
I could hardly push up from the board...
But I did, sort of, got to my feet anyway...
And surfed a few fun knee to waist high waves...
It was sunny, then it rained, then sunny again...
Every wave required physical reassessment...
And determining whether paddling back out was an option...
As I was about to bag, about 2 painful hours in...
A few promising sets came through...
And I dragged my sorry @ss back out there...
Picked off a few more...
And finally found a fun outside left...
That satisfied my long denied surf needs...
Both my legs were healthy...
And delivered me to the store where I bought beer...
My strong right arm delivered said swill to lips...
In a refreshing manner...
As I sat in the sun...
And watched the surf go to shite.

Doc

[dogfur]

Every wave required physical reassessment...
And determining whether paddling back out was an option...
As I was about to bag, about 2 painful hours in...

Well worth every grimmace and groan, I bet.
Welcome back! Hope you're at full strength soon.

[smithgrind]

Dry since Dec. '10.

[Doc]

Another painful surf at S. Bro...
There were a few little peaks coming thru...
Wading out to chest deep to avoid paddling...
Then missing a few good ones cause the arm won't go...
Was kind of frustrating...
North wind was howling when I got there...
Blistering while I drank my beer...
And sandblasting when I left...
It did hold up the lefts a little bit...
Before it blew them backwards...
Still nice to get wet.

Doc

[holddown]

Today I did some high tide blown out N wind cross country bushwhacking eco adventure sand spit tidal inundated evolving estuary flooded state park horse trail sweeping.

[Gazsurf]

Today I did some high tide blown out N wind cross country bushwhacking eco adventure sand spit tidal inundated evolving estuary flooded state park horse trail sweeping.

Hope you at least had tidal help on the way back......

[Paul Dresman]

Hey, Oregonians--looks like you had a nice and small and generally glassy day--I'm watching your cams from Central America. Currently in the mountains, studying Espanol, and observing the first people. An old friend from the North Shore came down a few weeks ago, and we took a shuttle south out of Guatemala and down along the coast of El Salvador. As usual, a couple of adventuresome Aussies were along for the ride--they were eventually bound for the long lefts in north Peru (intrepid travelers). My friend and I went for the right point at Sunzal. Near the end of dry season, at the start of south swells, it's a thrill. Fairly cheap for surf travel, lots of overhead waves, many surfers from everywhere, but good vibes in the water--whether it's the German going left on a right peak or the six Argentines hanging on the shoulder. Plenty of apt surfers from wherever and waves aplenty. A good choice for spring--as long as you have a room with air con. We retired shortly to the mountains where the weather is perpetual spring. My wife and I have been studying for a month here in Antigua and leave soon for the Guatemala version of Crater Lake within the volcanoes--Atitlan--it's Christine's 60th birthday, and we mean to do it right Then north to San Cristobal de las Casas and some travel in Quintana Roo--snorkeling, I expect. But I'm going to try to find some mainland waves before this adventure is over and will report--unless, of course, the credit card company revokes all privileges. Then we'll hitchhike north, like I hitchhiked south in l962, another young fool on the road who started to hallucinate that the Spanish I heard was really English--but I was so much older then, I'm younger than that now.

[Quad Head]

Nice dispatch Paulman. Sure hope do be doin the same when I hit my 50's-60's. Love C.A. And El Salv. Such a rad place, although been 6 years this month since my last one down that way.

Otherwise any glassy gliders or micro-shredders out there today?

Or am I hallucinating again.....