by Doc » Wed May 25, 2011 10:29 am
Wrapped up work a bit early and headed west outta Salem...
Bagged on Brohampton's shifty reforms in the afternoon...
Headed north watching flapping flags & opted for north wind protection...
Hemmed and hawed on the 9'4" or the 6'8"...
But went long to avoid a walk back up the trail...
Watched wedging lefts reel up the beach as I walked...
Paddled out at the north end and picked off right after right...
After a bit paddled south a bit to look for the lefts I spied earlier...
Found a few of those but kind of fat and sloppy...
Still a few outside sets kept it interesting...
A couple hours in a big left came through...
That lined up like I'd been hoping for...
With enough size and push to get through the inside trough...
And reform on the inside bar for a final bit of fun...
Stepped off in knee deep water and called it a night...
Pounded my beers and pounded up the trail...
Cruise controlled back to PDX at 64 mph...
Barely made it to KF and sparred for 2 hours...
Got my assed kicked by a smiling, obliging black belt...
Dog tired and sore, got home at 10, ate a salad, and went to bed...
Good day.
"If you don't surf...don't start".