by SoCalBarger » Fri Dec 06, 2013 1:34 pm
Back from a long hiatus.
I despise any wave riding that require handles, jet-skis, paddles or lying prone.
In the water I am a conservative, redneck, caveman.
Out of the water I'm a bleeding heart, lib that fights injustice in it's many forms (unless it means I have to get off the couch).
I ride a log in waves under chest high, but I hate myself for it later
I skate way more than I surf, thanks to the Pacific ocean going basically flat down here for the past few months.
I grew up in southernmost LA county, surfing breaks that will not be named here.
I spent my formative years waxing windows, deflating tires, fighting with OTs, and generally being an a-hole to anyone who didn't grow up within a 10 block radius of my home break.
Followed the Dead around the west coast for a couple of tours.
Lived in the Central Coast of Oregon for a minute. Left before Lincoln City skatepark got built.
Got stoned with deaf paul at Burnside a month ago.
I love yoga and puppy breath
"All fixed set patterns are incapable of adaptability or pliability. The truth is outside of all fixed patterns.”
Bruce Lee