Hit the rat race on prime time Saturday afternoon and rolled into a rockstar spot in the lot after driving by a couple
hundred yards of cars parked on 101. Weaved through the human traffic cones on the trail and found a quiet log
away from the brofest at second creek to get suited and booted. I hadn't surfed or worked out for over a month due
to a sudden neck/shoulder/nerve issue which flared up after the last time I surfed. The paddle out was easy and the
water was cold enough to sting my raw hands. All good signs. Plenty of fun, glassy waves in the waist to head range
but also plenty of blissed out kooks paddling for everything on their LBs. I opted for a 5'7" quad which had me a bit
more chippy in the line up when the sets rolled through and everyone and their mom wanted a hero wave. Swell dropped in accordance with the dropping tide and I called it good an hour or so after LT. As I sat on the log soaking up some low angled
rays I reflected on how good it felt to get waves but I couldn't ignore the shade thrown by my fellow human beings in the water and on the beach. Ah...life has relegated me to being an weekend warrior, what more did I expect?