Circumstantial day off yesterday and lucked into some super fun waves despite the small swell. I had reluctantly planned the day off for a court date that was called off at the last minute for an accident I was in several years ago. With the forecast indicating east winds, did I tell the new boss man? Oh HELL NO! So rolled over Monday after work, which was a clean hour and 7 minutes from new location.
Slept like a baby to the ocean rhythms. Woke up to clear and clean lines and what appeared to be a serviceable wave right out front at a spot I occasionally surf when the stars align. Ocean was so calm. No reverb and small unmolested sets pulsing. No one really around and definitely no surfers here for the most part. Hans solo dolo didn’t wat to drive away from waves and figured I had to give it a go. These big tides make for short windows, so I did my best at getting out there ASAP.
Made the longish paddle. The sun had not risen over the coast range quite yet giving the water a spooky darkness. Got out really easily, but had a hard time lining up on the peak I watched from the bluff. Paddled back and forth missing a few good ones until I nabbed one. Offshore spray in the face and into a HH wave I raced to the shoulder. Back out there and experienced quite the lull. Tide was flooding, peak was shutting, and I hate just bobbing out there by myself not keeping busy. Paddled inside a bit and caught a mushy one in. Day was still young so after a hot shower went searching not too far away.
1st spot I had heard has been good had a small crew of mostly loggers. Looked small and big HT was peaking. Checked another spot that had one head not getting much, made a phone call, and then back to other spot. Checked it from another angle and it looked punchier than before and there were less heads, so jumped out there.
At 1st I regretted not having a fish, which I took the fins out and racked for the season, but as the tide sucked out initially it got punchy and damn fun. CH – HH crispy offsore wedgey peaks offering up pretty user friendly barrels. Drop, quick stall turn, and pull in. 2nd wave got deep and road for about 3 or 4 seconds hoping to make it out of the almond eye, but got clipped. Rest of the session was a mini barrel fest and busted out of a few doggy doors. Didn’t make the majority, but oh those views! Think I made 3 top turns the entire session. Why bother when there are easy sand bottomed barrels on tap. Window lasted for about 90 minutes and then the water was off the inside bars that make this fickle spot fun and one I haven’t surfed in a few years. Been feeling and getting the positive vibes lately. Not sure when I'll get out again, but this session should keep me stoked for a bit.