by dtrn » Tue Oct 22, 2019 12:50 pm
Adhering to protocol thanks to Haole Wolf and Tex.
I ride mid length and logs because I am 40, and I live 2 hours from the ocean in the gorge.
I lived in Washington, moved to norcal 15 years ago for work, learned to surf, moved back 5 years ago.
Spent a lot of time paddling out in santa cruz, big sur, OBSF, San Mateo and Humboldt.
Surfed almost every day for 10 years. Lucky to get it once a week these days!
I gained 25 lbs as a result of moving from the coast and not surfing every day.
Still stoked, but much fatter.
I'm also a ski bum wandering the cascades, sierras and rockies.
But enough about me ....
Cheers